How I Found Livingstone by Henry M. Stanley (trending books to read .txt) đź“•
The same mode of commerce obtains here as in all Mohammedan countries--nay, the mode was in vogue long before Moses was born. The Arab never changes. He brought the custom of his forefathers with him when he came to live on this island. He is as much of an Arab here as at Muscat or Bagdad; wherever he goes to live he carries with him his harem, his religion, his long robe, his shirt, his slippers, and his dagger. If he penetrates Africa, not all the ridicule of the negroes can make him change his modes of life. Yet the land has not become Oriental; the Arab has not
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profession, I had a well-supplied medicine chest—without which no
traveller in Africa could live—for just such a contingency as was
now present. On visiting Maganga’s sick men, I found one suffering
from inflammation of the lungs, another from the mukunguru (African
intermittent). They all imagined themselves about to die, and
called loudly for “Mama!” “Mama!” though they were all grown men.
It was evident that the fourth caravan could not stir that day, so
leaving word with Magauga to hurry after me as soon as possible, I
issued orders for the march of my own.
Excepting in the neighbourhood of the villages which we have passed
there were no traces of cultivation. The country extending
between the several stations is as much a wilderness as the desert
of Sahara, though it possesses a far more pleasing aspect. Indeed,
had the first man at the time of the Creation gazed at his world
and perceived it of the beauty which belongs to this part of
Africa, he would have had no cause of complaint. In the deep
thickets, set like islets amid a sea of grassy verdure, he would
have found shelter from the noonday heat, and a safe retirement
for himself and spouse during the awesome darkness. In the morning
he could have walked forth on the sloping sward, enjoyed its
freshness, and performed his ablutions in one of the many small
streams flowing at its foot. His garden of fruit-trees is all that
is required; the noble forests, deep and cool, are round about
him, and in their shade walk as many animals as one can desire.
For days and days let a man walk in any direction, north, south,
east, and west, and he will behold the same scene.
Earnestly as I wished to hurry on to Unyanyembe, still a
heart-felt anxiety about the arrival of my goods carried by the
fourth caravan, served as a drag upon me and before my caravan
had marched nine miles my anxiety had risen to the highest pitch,
and caused me to order a camp there and then. The place selected
for it was near a long straggling sluice, having an abundance of
water during the rainy season, draining as it does two extensive
slopes. No sooner had we pitched our camp, built a boma of
thorny acacia, and other tree branches, by stacking them round
our camp, and driven our animals to grass; than we were made aware
of the formidable number and variety of the insect tribe, which
for a time was another source of anxiety, until a diligent
examination of the several species dispelled it.
As it was a most interesting hunt which I instituted for the
several specimens of the insects, I here append the record of it
for what it is worth. My object in obtaining these specimens was
to determine whether the genus Glossina morsitans of the
naturalist, or the tsetse (sometimes called setse) of Livingstone,
Vardon, and Gumming, said to be deadly to horses, was amongst
them. Up to this date I had been nearly two months in East
Africa, and had as yet seen no tsetse; and my horses, instead of
becoming emaciated—for such is one of the symptoms of a tsetse
bite—had considerably improved in condition. There were three
different species of flies which sought shelter in my tent, which,
unitedly, kept up a continual chorus of sounds—one performed the
basso profondo, another a tenor, and the third a weak contralto.
The first emanated from a voracious and fierce fly, an inch long,
having a ventral capacity for blood quite astonishing.
This larger fly was the one chosen for the first inspection,
which was of the intensest. I permitted one to alight on my
flannel pyjamas, which I wore while en deshabille in camp.
No sooner had he alighted than his posterior was raised, his
head lowered, and his weapons, consisting of four hair-like
styles, unsheathed from the proboscis-like bag which concealed
them, and immediately I felt pain like that caused by a dexterous
lancet-cut or the probe of a fine needle. I permitted him to
gorge himself, though my patience and naturalistic interest were
sorely tried. I saw his abdominal parts distend with the plenitude
of the repast until it had swollen to three times its former
shrunken girth, when he flew away of his own accord laden with blood.
On rolling up my flannel pyjamas to see the fountain whence the
fly had drawn the fluid, I discovered it to be a little above the
left knee, by a crimson bead resting over the incision. After
wiping the blood the wound was similar to that caused by a deep
thrust of a fine needle, but all pain had vanished with the
departure of the fly.
Having caught a specimen of this fly, I next proceeded to institute
a comparison between it and the tsetse, as described by Dr.
Livingstone on pp. 56-57, `Missionary Travels and Researches in
South Africa’ (Murray’s edition of 1868). The points of
disagreement are many, and such as to make it entirely improbable
that this fly is the true tsetse, though my men unanimously
stated that its bite was fatal to horses as well as to donkeys.
A descriptive abstract of the tsetse would read thus: “Not much
larger than a common housefly, nearly of the same brown colour as
the honey-bee. After-part of the body has yellow bars across it.
It has a peculiar buzz, and its bite is death to the horse, ox,
and dog. On man the bite has no effect, neither has it on wild
animals. When allowed to feed on the hand, it inserts the middle
prong of three portions into which the proboscis divides, it then
draws the prong out a little way, and it assumes a crimson colour
as the mandibles come into brisk operation; a slight itching
irritation follows the bite.”
The fly which I had under inspection is called mabunga by the
natives. It is much larger than the common housefly, fully a
third larger than the common honey-bee, and its colour more
distinctly marked; its head is black, with a greenish gloss to
it; the after-part of the body is marked by a white line running
lengthwise from its junction with the trunk, and on each side of
this white line are two other lines, one of a crimson colour, the
other of a light brown. As for its buzz, there is no peculiarity
in it, it might be mistaken for that of a honey-bee. When caught
it made desperate efforts to get away, but never attempted to bite.
This fly, along with a score of others, attacked my grey horse,
and bit it so sorely in the legs that they appeared as if bathed
in blood. Hence, I might have been a little vengeful if, with more
than the zeal of an entomologist, I caused it to disclose whatever
peculiarities its biting parts possessed.
In order to bring this fly as life-like as possible before my
readers, I may compare its head to most tiny miniature of an
elephant’s, because it has a black proboscis and a pair of horny
antennae, which in colour and curve resemble tusks. The black
proboscis, however, the simply a hollow sheath, which encloses,
when not in the act of biting, four reddish and sharp lancets.
Under the microscope these four lancets differ in thickness, two
are very thick, the third is slender, but the fourth, of an opal
colour and almost transparent, is exceedingly fine. This last must
be the sucker. When the fly is about to wound, the two horny
antennae are made to embrace the part, the lancets are unsheathed,
and on the instant the incision is performed. This I consider
to be the African “horse-fly.’
The second fly, which sang the tenor notes more nearly resembled
in size and description the tsetse. It was exceedingly nimble,
and it occupied three soldiers nearly an hour to capture a specimen;
and, when it was finally caught, it stung most ravenously the hand,
and never ceased its efforts to attack until it was pinned through.
It had three or four white marks across the after-part of its body;
but the biting parts of this fly consisted of two black antennae
and an opal coloured style, which folded away under the neck. When
about to bite, this style was shot out straight, and the antennae
embraced it closely. After death the fly lost its distinctive white
marks. Only one of this species did we see at this camp. The third
fly, called “chufwa,” pitched a weak alto-crescendo note, was a
third larger than the house fly, and had long wings. If this insect
sang the feeblest note, it certainly did the most work, and
inflicted the most injury. Horses and donkeys streamed with blood,
and reared and kicked through the pain. So determined was it not
to be driven before it obtained its fill, that it was easily
despatched; but this dreadful enemy to cattle constantly
increased in numbers. The three species above named are, according
to natives, fatal to cattle; and this may perhaps be the reason
why such a vast expanse of first-class pasture is without domestic
cattle of any kind, a few goats only being kept by the villagers.
This fly I subsequently found to be the “tsetse.”
On the second morning, instead of proceeding, I deemed it more
prudent to await the fourth caravan. Burton experimented
sufficiently for me on the promised word of the Banyans of Kaole
and Zanzibar, and waited eleven months before he received the
promised articles. As I did not expect to be much over that time
on my errand altogether, it would be ruin, absolute and irremediable,
should I be detained at Unyanyembe so long a time by my caravan.
Pending its arrival, I sought the pleasures of the chase. I was
but a tyro in hunting, I confess, though I had shot a little on the
plains of America and Persia; yet I considered myself a fair shot,
and on game ground, and within a reasonable proximity to game, I
doubted not but I could bring some to camp.
After a march of a mile through the tall grass of the open, we
gained the glades between the jungles. Unsuccessful here, after
ever so much prying into fine hiding-places and lurking corners,
I struck a trail well traversed by small antelope and hartebeest,
which we followed. It led me into a jungle, and down a watercourse
bisecting it; but, after following it for an hour, I lost it,
and, in endeavouring to retrace it, lost my way. However, my
pocket-compass stood me in good stead; and by it I steered for
the open plain, in the centre of which stood the camp. But it was
terribly hard work—this of plunging through an African jungle,
ruinous to clothes, and trying to the cuticle. In order to travel
quickly, I had donned a pair of flannel pyjamas, and my feet were
encased in canvas shoes. As might be expected, before I had gone
a few paces a branch of the acacia horrida—only one of a
hundred such annoyances—caught the right leg of my pyjamas at the
knee, and ripped it almost clean off; succeeding which a stumpy
kolquall caught me by the shoulder, and another rip was the
inevitable consequence. A few yards farther on, a prickly aloetic
plant disfigured by a wide tear the other leg of my pyjamas, and
almost immediately I tripped against a convolvulus strong as
ratline, and was made to measure my length on a bed of thorns.
It was on all fours, like a hound on a scent, that I was compelled
to travel; my solar topee getting the worse for wear every minute;
my skin getting more and more wounded; my clothes at each step
becoming more and more
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