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and I was glad to leave it. Uncle rushed out and bought a pair of dog-skin gloves, some ugly, thick shoes, and an umbrella, and got shaved à la mutton-chop, the first thing. Then he flattered himself that he looked like a true Briton; but the first time he had the mud cleaned off his shoes, the little bootblack knew that an American stood in them, and said, with a grin, ‘There yer har, sir. I’ve give ’em the latest Yankee shine.’ It amused uncle immensely. Oh, I must tell you what that absurd Lennox did! He got his friend Ward, who came on with us, to order a bouquet for me, and the first thing I saw in my room was a lovely one, with ‘Robert Lennox’s compliments,’ on the card. Wasn’t that fun, girls? I like travelling.

“I never shall get to London if I don’t hurry. The trip was like riding through a long picture-gallery, full of lovely landscapes. The farmhouses were my delight; with thatched roofs, ivy up to the eaves, latticed windows, and stout women with rosy children at the doors. The very cattle looked more tranquil than ours, as they stood knee-deep in clover, and the hens had a contented cluck, as if they never got nervous, like Yankee biddies. Such perfect color I never saw⁠—the grass so green, sky so blue, grain so yellow, woods so dark⁠—I was in a rapture all the way. So was Flo; and we kept bouncing from one side to the other, trying to see everything while we were whisking along at the rate of sixty miles an hour. Aunt was tired and went to sleep, but uncle read his guidebook, and wouldn’t be astonished at anything. This is the way we went on: Amy, flying up⁠—‘Oh, that must be Kenilworth, that gray place among the trees!’ Flo, darting to my window⁠—‘How sweet! We must go there some time, won’t we, papa?’ Uncle, calmly admiring his boots⁠—‘No, my dear, not unless you want beer; that’s a brewery.’

“A pause⁠—then Flo cried out, ‘Bless me, there’s a gallows and a man going up.’ ‘Where, where?’ shrieks Amy, staring out at two tall posts with a crossbeam and some dangling chains. ‘A colliery,’ remarks uncle, with a twinkle of the eye. ‘Here’s a lovely flock of lambs all lying down,’ says Amy. ‘See, papa, aren’t they pretty!’ added Flo sentimentally. ‘Geese, young ladies,’ returns uncle, in a tone that keeps us quiet till Flo settles down to enjoy ‘The Flirtations of Capt. Cavendish’, and I have the scenery all to myself.

“Of course it rained when we got to London, and there was nothing to be seen but fog and umbrellas. We rested, unpacked, and shopped a little between the showers. Aunt Mary got me some new things, for I came off in such a hurry I wasn’t half ready. A white hat and blue feather, a muslin dress to match, and the loveliest mantle you ever saw. Shopping in Regent Street is perfectly splendid; things seem so cheap⁠—nice ribbons only sixpence a yard. I laid in a stock, but shall get my gloves in Paris. Doesn’t that sound sort of elegant and rich?

“Flo and I, for the fun of it, ordered a hansom cab, while aunt and uncle were out, and went for a drive, though we learned afterward that it wasn’t the thing for young ladies to ride in them alone. It was so droll! for when we were shut in by the wooden apron, the man drove so fast that Flo was frightened, and told me to stop him. But he was up outside behind somewhere, and I couldn’t get at him. He didn’t hear me call, nor see me flap my parasol in front, and there we were, quite helpless, rattling away, and whirling around corners at a breakneck pace. At last, in my despair, I saw a little door in the roof, and on poking it open, a red eye appeared, and a beery voice said⁠—

“ ‘Now then, mum?’

“I gave my order as soberly as I could, and slamming down the door, with an ‘Aye, aye, mum,’ the man made his horse walk, as if going to a funeral. I poked again, and said, ‘A little faster;’ then off he went, helter-skelter, as before, and we resigned ourselves to our fate.

“Today was fair and we went to Hyde Park, close by, for we are more aristocratic than we look. The Duke of Devonshire lives near. I often see his footmen lounging at the back gate; and the Duke of Wellington’s house is not far off. Such sights as I saw, my dear! It was as good as Punch, for there were fat dowagers rolling about in their red and yellow coaches, with gorgeous Jeameses in silk stockings and velvet coats, up behind, and powdered coachmen in front. Smart maids, with the rosiest children I ever saw; handsome girls, looking half asleep; dandies, in queer English hats and lavender kids, lounging about, and tall soldiers, in short red jackets and muffin caps stuck on one side, looking so funny I longed to sketch them.

“Rotten Row means ‘Route de Roi,’ or the king’s way; but now it’s more like a riding-school than anything else. The horses are splendid, and the men, especially the grooms, ride well; but the women are stiff, and bounce, which isn’t according to our rules. I longed to show them a tearing American gallop, for they trotted solemnly up and down, in their scant habits and high hats, looking like the women in a toy Noah’s Ark. Everyone rides⁠—old men, stout ladies, little children⁠—and the young folks do a deal of flirting here; I saw a pair exchange rosebuds, for it’s the thing to wear one in the buttonhole, and I thought it rather a nice little idea.

“In the p.m. to Westminster Abbey; but don’t expect me to describe it, that’s impossible⁠—so I’ll only say it was sublime! This evening we are going to see Fechter, which

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