How I Found Livingstone by Henry M. Stanley (trending books to read .txt) đź“•
The same mode of commerce obtains here as in all Mohammedan countries--nay, the mode was in vogue long before Moses was born. The Arab never changes. He brought the custom of his forefathers with him when he came to live on this island. He is as much of an Arab here as at Muscat or Bagdad; wherever he goes to live he carries with him his harem, his religion, his long robe, his shirt, his slippers, and his dagger. If he penetrates Africa, not all the ridicule of the negroes can make him change his modes of life. Yet the land has not become Oriental; the Arab has not
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pause, reader—the port of Ujiji is below us, embowered in the
palms, only five hundred yards from us!
At this grand moment we do not think of the hundreds of miles we
have marched, or of the hundreds of hills that we have ascended
and descended, or of the many forests we have traversed, or of the
jungles and thickets that annoyed us, or of the fervid salt plains
that blistered our feet, or of the hot suns that scorched us, nor
of the dangers and difficulties, now happily surmounted!
At last the sublime hour has arrived;—our dreams, our hopes, and
anticipations are now about to be realised! Our hearts and our
feelings are with our eyes, as we peer into the palms and try to
make out in which hut or house lives the “white man with the grey
beard” we heard about when we were at the Malagarazi.
“Unfurl the flags, and load your guns!”
“We will, master, we will, master!” respond the men eagerly.
“One, two, three,—fire!”
A volley from nearly fifty guns roars like a salute from a
battery of artillery : we shall note its effect presently on
the peaceful-looking village below.
“Now, kirangozi, hold the white man’s flag up high, and let the
Zanzibar flag bring up the rear. And you men keep close together,
and keep firing until we halt in the market-place, or before the
white man’s house. You have said to me often that you could smell
the fish of the Tanganika—I can smell the fish of the Tanganika
now. There are fish, and beer, and a long rest waiting for you.
MARCH!”
Before we had gone a hundred yards our repeated volleys had the
effect desired. We had awakened Ujiji to the knowledge that a
caravan was coming, and the people were witnessed rushing up in
hundreds to meet us. The mere sight of the flags informed every
one immediately that we were a caravan, but the American flag
borne aloft by gigantic Asmani, whose face was one vast smile on
this day, rather staggered them at first. However, many of the
people who now approached us, remembered the flag. They had seen
it float above the American Consulate, and from the mast-head of
many a ship in the harbor of Zanzibar, and they were soon heard
welcoming the beautiful flag with cries of “Bindera Kisungu!”—a
white man’s flag! “Bindera Merikani!”—the American flag!
Then we were surrounded by them: by Wajiji, Wanyamwezi, Wangwana,
Warundi, Waguhha, Wamanyuema, and Arabs, and were almost
deafened with the shouts of “Yambo, yambo, bana! Yambo, bana!
Yambo, bana!” To all and each of my men the welcome was given.
We were now about three hundred yards from the village of Ujiji,
and the crowds are dense about me. Suddenly I hear a voice on
my right say,
“Good morning, sir!”
Startled at hearing this greeting in the midst of such a crowd of
black people, I turn sharply around in search of the man, and see
him at my side, with the blackest of faces, but animated and
joyous—a man dressed in a long white shirt, with a turban of
American sheeting around his woolly head, and I ask:
“Who the mischief are you?”
“I am Susi, the servant of Dr. Livingstone,” said be, smiling,
and showing a gleaming row of teeth.
“What! Is Dr. Livingstone here?”
“Yes, sir.”
“In this village?”
“Yes, sir.”
“Are you sure?”
“Sure, sure, sir. Why, I leave him just now.””
“Good morning, sir,” said another voice.
“Hallo,” said I, “is this another one?”
“Yes, sir.”
“Well, what is your name?”
“My name is Chumah, sir.”
“What! are you Chumah, the friend of Wekotani?”
“Yes, sir.”
“And is the-Doctor well?”
” Not very well, sir.”
“Where has he been so long?”
“In Manyuema.”
“Now, you Susi, run, and tell the Doctor I am coming.”
“Yes, sir,” and off he darted like a madman.
But by this time we were within two hundred yards of the village,
and the multitude was getting denser, and almost preventing our
march. Flags and streamers were out; Arabs and Wangwana were
pushing their way through the natives in order to greet us, for
according to their account, we belonged to them. But the great
wonder of all was, “How did you come from Unyanyembe?”
Soon Susi came running back, and asked me my name; he had told
the Doctor I was coming, but the Doctor was too surprised to believe
him, and when the Doctor asked him my name, Susi was rather staggered.
But, during Susi’s absence, the news had been conveyed to the
Doctor that it was surely a white man that was coming, whose guns
were firing, and whose flag could be seen; and the great Arab
magnates of Ujiji—Mohammed bin Sali, Sayd bin Majid, Abid bin
Suliman, Mohammed bin Gharib, and others—had gathered together
before the Doctor’s house, and the Doctor had come out from his
veranda to discuss the matter and await my arrival.
In the meantime, the head of the Expedition had halted, and the
kirangozi was out of the ranks, holding his flag aloft, and Selim
said to me, “I see the Doctor, sir. Oh, what an old man! He has
got a white beard.” And I—what would I not have given for a bit
of friendly wilderness, where, unseen, I might vent my joy in some
mad freak, such as idiotically biting my hand; turning a somersault,
or slashing at trees, in order to allay those exciting feelings
that were well-nigh uncontrollable. My heart beats fast, but I must
not let my face betray my emotions, lest it shall detract from the
dignity of a white man appearing under such extraordinary circumstances.
So I did that which I thought was most dignified. I pushed back
the crowds, and, passing from the rear, walked down a living avenue
of people, until I came in front of the semicircle of Arabs, before
which stood the “white man with the grey beard.”
As I advanced slowly towards him I noticed he was pale, that he
looked wearied and wan, that he had grey whiskers and moustache,
that he wore a bluish cloth cap with a faded gold band on a red
ground round it, and that he had on a red-sleeved waistcoat, and a
pair of grey tweed trousers.
I would have run to him, only I was a coward in the presence of
such a mob—would have embraced him, but that I did not know how
he would receive me; so I did what moral cowardice and false pride
suggested was the best thing—walked deliberately to him, took off
my hat, and said:
“DR. LIVINGSTONE, I PRESUME?”
“Yes,” said he, with a kind, cordial smile, lifting his cap slightly.
I replaced my hat on my head, and he replaced his cap, and we
both grasped hands. I then said aloud:
“I thank God, Doctor, I have been permitted to see you.”
He answered, “I feel thankful that I am here to welcome you.”
I turned to the Arabs, took off my hat to them in response to the
saluting chorus of “Yambos” I received, and the Doctor introduced
them to me by name. Then, oblivious of the crowds, oblivious of
the men who shared with me my dangers, we—Livingstone and I—
turned our faces towards his house. He pointed to the veranda,
or rather, mud platform, under the broad overhanging eaves; he
pointed to his own particular seat, which I saw his age and
experience in Africa had suggested, namely, a straw mat, with a
goatskin over it, and another skin nailed against the wall to
protect his back from contact with the cold mud. I protested
against taking this seat, which so much more befitted him than I,
but the Doctor would not yield: I must take it.
We were seated—the Doctor and I—with our backs to the wall.
The Arabs took seats on our left. More than a thousand natives
were in our front, filling the whole square densely, indulging
their curiosity, and discussing the fact of two white men meeting
at Ujiji—one just come from Manyuema, in the west, the other from
Unyanyembe, in the east.
Conversation began. What about? I declare I have forgotten.
Oh! we mutually asked questions of one another, such as
“How did you come here?” and “Where have you been all this long
time?—the world has believed you to be dead. “Yes, that was the
way it began: but whatever the Doctor informed me, and that which
I communicated to him, I cannot correctly report, for I found myself
gazing at him, conning the wonderful figure and face of the man at
whose side I now sat in Central Africa. Every hair of his head
and beard, every wrinkle of his face, the wanness of his features,
and the slightly wearied look he wore, were all imparting
intelligence to me—the knowledge I craved for so much ever since
I heard the words, “Take what you want, but find Livingstone.”
What I saw was deeply interesting intelligence to me, and unvarnished
truth. I was listening and reading at the same time. What did these
dumb witnesses relate to me?
Oh, reader, had you been at my side on this day in Ujiji, how
eloquently could be told the nature of this man’s work! Had you
been there but to see and hear! His lips gave me the details; lips
that never lie. I cannot repeat what he said; I was too much
engrossed to take my note-book out, and begin to stenograph his story.
He had so much to say that he began at the end, seemingly oblivious
of the fact that five or six years had to be accounted for. But his
account was oozing out; it was growing fast into grand proportions—
into a most marvellous history of deeds.
The Arabs rose up, with a delicacy I approved, as if they intuitively
knew that we ought to be left to ourselves. I sent Bombay with them
to give them the news they also wanted so much to know about the
affairs at Unyanyembe. Sayd bin Majid was the father of the gallant
young man whom I saw at Masangi, and who fought with me at Zimbizo,
and who soon afterwards was killed by Mirambo’s RugaRuga in the
forest of Wilyankuru; and, knowing that I had been there, he
earnestly desired to hear the tale of the fight; but they had all
friends at Unyanyembe, and it was but natural that they should be
anxious to hear of what concerned them.
After giving orders to Bombay and Asmani for the provisioning of
the men of the Expedition, I called “Kaif-Halek,” or “How-do-ye-do,”
and introduced him to Dr. Livingstone as one of the soldiers in
charge of certain goods left at Unyanyembe, whom I had compelled
to accompany me to Ujiji, that he might deliver in person to his
master the letter-bag with which he had been entrusted. This was
that famous letter-bag marked “Nov. 1st, 1870,” which was now
delivered into the Doctor’s hands 365 days after it left Zanzibar!
How long, I wonder, had it remained at Unyanyembe had I not been
despatched into Central Africa in search of the great traveller?
The Doctor kept the letter-bag on his knee, then, presently, opened
it, looked at the letters contained there, and read one or two of
his children’s letters, his face in the meanwhile lighting up.
He asked me to tell him the news. “No, Doctor,” said I, “read your
letters first, which I am sure you must be impatient to read.”
“Ah,” said he,
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