Journals Of Two Expeditions Of Discovery In North West And Western Australia Volume 1 (Of 2) by George Grey (read book txt) π
Took Their Origin From A Proposition Made To Government By Myself, In
Conjunction With Lieutenant Lushington,* In The Latter Part Of The Year
1836.
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- Author: George Grey
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And A Strong Breeze Blowing From The Southward; At This Time However
There Was Nothing Which In My Opinion Rendered It Too Hazardous To Risk
The Passage, More Especially Being Pressed As We Were By The Want Of
Food. The Distance Across To Bernier Island From The Point Of The Main
Where We Were Was About Ten Miles Further Than It Is From Dover To
Calais. Our Boats Were In Very Bad Repair, And The Landing On The Other
Side Was By No Means Good. I Therefore Certainly Would Not Have Ventured
To Make The Passage In A Gale Of Wind; But The Weather Did Not Seem
Threatening And It Had Been For Many Successive Days Blowing As Hard As
It Was When We Started.
Caught In A Gale Of Wind.
We Might Have Gone Nine Or Ten Miles When The Wind Suddenly Increased,
And Ere We Had Made Five More It Had Become A Perfect Gale And We Were
Obliged To Keep The Boats Close Hauled, For Had We Run Ever So Little
Before The Wind We Should Not Have Fetched Bernier Island, And
Consequently Should Have Been Blown Right Out To Sea. We Had Nothing
Therefore Now To Do But To Struggle For It, And To Use Every Energy To
Save Ourselves. Sea After Sea Broke Into The Boat But The Water Was As
Rapidly Baled Out: None Could Have Behaved Better Than The Crews Of Both
Boats Did, And The Whole Scene Was One Of Such Constant, Cheerful, And
Successful Exertion That, Great As Our Danger Was, I Do Not Recollect
Ever Having A Keener Perception Of The Pleasure Of Excited Feelings, Or A
More Thorough Revelry Of Joyous Emotions, Than I Had During This Perilous
Passage.
Reach Bernier Island.
Bernier Island At Last Rose In Sight And Amidst The Giant Waves We
Occasionally Caught A Peep Of Its Rocky Shores; But We Were So Tossed To
And Fro That It Was Only Now And Then That From The Summit Of Some
Lofty Sea We Could Sight A High Shore Which Was Not More Than Four Or
Five Miles From Us. We Had Made The Island About Five Miles From Its
Northern Extremity, And I Ran Along The Shore Until I Found A Convenient
Landing-Place About A Mile And A Half To The South Of Our Old One.
Change In The Land.
It Was Perfectly Sheltered By Reefs And An Island, But It Surprised Me
That I Had Not Remarked This Cove On My Previous Visit To The Island, And
I Was Still Further Astonished To See Now Three New Small Rocky Islands,
Of Which I Had No Recollection Whatever. Indeed The Men All For A Long
Time Stoutly Denied That This Was Bernier Island And, Had We Not Now
Sighted Kok's Island, I Should Have Doubted My Skill In Navigation And
Made Up My Mind That I Had Fallen Into Some Strange Error; But As It Was
Forebodings Shot Across My Wind As To What Pranks The Hurricane Might
Have Been Playing Upon The Island, Which Consisted Of Nothing But Loose
Sand Heaped Upon A Bed Of Limestone Rock Of Very Unequal Elevation.
I Ran In My Own Boat Upon A Convenient Point Of The Beach And The Other
Volume 1 Chapter 12 (From The Gascoyne To Gantheaume Bay Sail From The Gascoyne) Pg 241Boat Followed In Safety, For I Did Not Like, In Such Foul Weather, To
Leave Them At Anchor On A Lee Shore, Which Had Previously Proved So
Unsafe A Position. A Most Awkward Question Now Presented Itself To My
Consideration: From The Altered Appearance Of The Coast I Felt Very
Considerable Doubts As To The State In Which The Depot Might Be Found;
Supposing Anything Had Occurred To It I Felt That It Would Be Unadvisable
That Such A Discovery Should Be Made In The Presence Of Many Persons; As
Future Discipline Would In A Great Measure Depend Upon The First
Impression That Was Given. Who, Then, Had I Better Select For The Purpose
Of Visiting The Depot In The First Instance? After Some Deliberation I
Made Choice Of Mr. Smith And Corporal Coles, In The Courage,
Disinterestedness, And Self-Possession Of Both Of Whom I Placed Great
Confidence. I Directed Mr. Walker To See Certain Little Alterations Made
In The Boats Before The Men Were Allowed To Straggle; These I Knew Would
Occupy Them For Some Time And Leave Me Therefore During This Interval
Free To Think And Act According To Circumstances. I Now Called Mr. Smith
And Corporal Coles To Accompany Me, And Told Coles To Bring A Spade With
Him.
Destruction Of The Depot Of Provisions. Symptoms Of Calamity.
Before We Had Gone Very Far Alarming Symptoms Met My Eyes In The Form Of
Staves Of Flour Casks Scattered About Amongst The Rocks, And Even High Up
On The Sandhills. Coles However Persisted That These Wore So Far Inland
That They Could Only Have Come From The Flour Casks Which We Had Emptied
Before Starting. I Knew They Were Far Too Numerous For Such To Be The
Case, But I Suppressed My Opinion And Made No Remarks. We Next Came To A
Cask Of Salt Provisions, Washed High And Dry At Least Twenty Feet Above
The Usual High-Water Mark: The Sea Had Evidently Not Been Near This For A
Long Period As It Was Half Covered With Drift Sand Which Must Have Taken
Some Time To Accumulate. This Coles Easily Accounted For, It Was Merely
The Cask Which Had Been Lost From The Wreck Of The Paul Pry. I Still
Thought Otherwise But Said Nothing.
At Length We Reached The Spot Where The Depot Had Been Made: So Changed
Was It That Both Mr. Smith And Coles Persisted It Was Not The Place; But
On Going To The Shore There Were Some Very Remarkable Rocks, On The Top
Of Which Lay A Flour Cask More Than Half Empty, With The Head Knocked
Out, But Not Otherwise Injured; This Also Was Washed Up At Least Twenty
Feet Of Perpendicular Elevation Beyond High Water Mark. The Dreadful
Certainty Now Flashed Upon The Minds Of Mr. Smith And Coles, And I Waited
To See What Effect It Would Have Upon Them. Coles Did Not Bear The
Surprise So Well As I Had Expected; He Dashed The Spade Upon The Ground
With Almost Ferocious Violence, And Looking Up To Me He Said, "All Lost,
Sir! We Are All Lost, Sir!" Mr. Smith Stood Utterly Calm And Unmoved; I
Had Not Calculated Wrongly Upon His Courage And Firmness. His Answer To
Coles Was, "Nonsense, Coles, We Shall Do Very Well Yet; Why, There Is A
Cask Of Salt Provisions And Half A Cask Of Flour Still Left."
Volume 1 Chapter 12 (From The Gascoyne To Gantheaume Bay Sail From The Gascoyne) Pg 242
I Now Rallied Coles Upon His Conduct; Compared It With That Of Mr. Smith,
And Told Him That When I Had Taken Him On To The Depot In Preference To
The Other Men It Had Been In The Expectation That, If Any Disaster Had
Happened, He Would, By His Coolness And Courage, Have Given Such An
Example As Would Have Exercised A Salutary Influence Upon The Others.
This Had The Desired Effect Upon Him; He Became Perfectly Cool And
Collected And Promised To Make Light Of The Misfortune To The Rest, And
To Observe The Strictest Discipline. I Then Requested Mr. Smith To See
The Little Flour That Was Left In The Barrel And On The Rocks Carefully
Collected By Coles, And, Leaving Them Thus Engaged, I Turned Back Along
The Sea Shore Towards The Party; Glad Of The Opportunity Of Being Alone
As I Could Now Commune Freely With My Own Thoughts.
Alarming Position And Prospects. Repair Damages, And Return To The Main.
The Safety Of The Whole Party Now Depended Upon My Forming A Prompt And
Efficient Plan Of Operations, And Seeing It Carried Out With Energy And
Perseverance. As Soon As I Was Out Of Sight Of Mr. Smith And Coles I Sat
Down Upon A Rock On The Shore To Reflect Upon Our Present Position. The
View Seawards Was Discouraging; The Gale Blew Fiercely In My Face And The
Spray Of The Breakers Was Dashed Over Me; Nothing Could Be More Gloomy
And Drear. I Turned Inland And Could See Only A Bed Of Rock, Covered With
Drifting Sand, On Which Grew A Stunted Vegetation, And Former Experience
Had Taught Me That We Could Not Hope To Find Water In This Island; Our
Position Here Was Therefore Untenable, And But Three Plans Presented
Themselves To Me: First, To Leave A Notice Of My Intentions On The
Island, Then To Make For Some Known Point On The Main And There Endeavour
To Subsist Ourselves Until We Should Be Found And Taken Off By The
Colonial Schooner; Secondly, To Start For Timor Or Port Essington;
Thirdly, To Try To Make Swan River In The Boats.
Consolations Of Religion.
I Determined Not To Decide Hastily Between These Plans And, In Order More
Fully To Compose My Mind, I Sat Down And Read A Few Chapters In The
Bible.
By The Influence These Imparted I Became Perfectly Contented And Resigned
To Our Apparently Wretched Condition And, Again Rising Up, Pursued My Way
Along The Beach To The Party. It May Be Here Remarked By Some That These
Statements Of My Attending To Religious Duties Are Irrelevant To The
Subject, But In Such An Opinion I Cannot At All Coincide. In Detailing
The Sufferings We Underwent It Is Necessary To Relate The Means By Which
Those Sufferings Were Alleviated; And After Having, In The Midst Of
Perils And Misfortunes, Received The Greatest Consolation From Religion,
I Should Be Ungrateful To My Maker Not To Acknowledge This, And Should
Ill Perform My Duty To My Fellow Men Did I Not Bear Testimony To The Fact
That, Under All The Weightier Sorrows And Sufferings That Our Frail
Volume 1 Chapter 12 (From The Gascoyne To Gantheaume Bay Sail From The Gascoyne) Pg 243Nature Is Liable To, A Perfect Reliance Upon The Goodness Of God And
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