How I Found Livingstone by Henry M. Stanley (trending books to read .txt) 📕
The same mode of commerce obtains here as in all Mohammedan countries--nay, the mode was in vogue long before Moses was born. The Arab never changes. He brought the custom of his forefathers with him when he came to live on this island. He is as much of an Arab here as at Muscat or Bagdad; wherever he goes to live he carries with him his harem, his religion, his long robe, his shirt, his slippers, and his dagger. If he penetrates Africa, not all the ridicule of the negroes can make him change his modes of life. Yet the land has not become Oriental; the Arab has not
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York were for James Gordon Bennett, junior, as he alone, not his
father, was responsible for the Expedition sent under my command.
I beg the reader’s pardon for republishing one of these letters
here, as its spirit and style indicate the man, the mere knowledge
of whose life or death was worth a costly Expedition.
Ujiji, on Tanganika, East Africa, November, 1871.
James Gordon Bennett, Jr., Esq.
My Dear Sir,—It is in general somewhat difficult to write to one
we have never seen—it feels so much like addressing an abstract
idea—but the presence of your representative, Mr. H. M. Stanley,
in this distant region takes away the strangeness I should otherwise
have felt, and in writing to thank you for the extreme kindness
that prompted you to send him, I feel quite at home.
If I explain the forlorn condition in which he found me you will
easily perceive that I have good reason to use very strong
expressions of gratitude. I came to Ujiji off a tramp of between
four hundred and five hundred miles, beneath a blazing vertical
sun, having been baffled, worried, defeated and forced to return,
when almost in sight of the end of the geographical part of my
mission, by a number of half-caste Moslem slaves sent to me from
Zanzibar, instead of men. The sore heart made still sorer by the
woeful sights I had seen of man’s inhumanity to man racked and
told on the bodily frame, and depressed it beyond measure. I
thought that I was dying on my feet. It is not too much to say
that almost every step of the weary sultry way was in pain, and
I reached Ujiji a mere ruckle of bones.
There I found that some five hundred pounds’ sterling worth of
goods which I had ordered from Zanzibar had unaccountably been
entrusted to a drunken half-caste Moslem tailor, who, after
squandering them for sixteen months on the way to Ujiji; finished
up by selling off all that remained for slaves and ivory for himself.
He had “divined” on the Koran and found that I was dead. He had
also written to the Governor of Unyanyembe that he had sent slaves
after me to Manyuema, who returned and reported my decease, and
begged permission to sell off the few goods that his drunken
appetite had spared.
He, however, knew perfectly well, from men who had seen me, that
I was alive, and waiting for the goods and men; but as for morality,
he is evidently an idiot, and there being no law here except that
of the dagger or musket, I had to sit down in great weakness,
destitute of everything save a few barter cloths and beads, which
I had taken the precaution to leave here in case of extreme need.
The near prospect of beggary among Ujijians made me miserable.
I could not despair, because I laughed so much at a friend who,
on reaching the mouth of the Zambezi, said that he was tempted
to despair on breaking the photograph of his wife. We could have
no success after that. Afterward the idea of despair had to me
such a strong smack of the ludicrous that it was out of the
question.
Well, when I had got to about the lowest verge, vague rumors of
an English visitor reached me. I thought of myself as the man
who went down from Jerusalem to Jericho; but neither priest, Levite,
nor Samaritan could possibly pass my way. Yet the good Samaritan
was close at hand, and one of my people rushed up at the top of
his speed, and, in great excitement, gasped out, “An Englishman
coming! I see him!” and off he darted to meet him.
An American flag, the first ever seen in these parts, at the head
of a caravan, told me the nationality of the stranger.
I am as cold and non-demonstrative as we islanders are usually
reputed to be; but your kindness made my frame thrill. It was,
indeed, overwhelming, and I said in my soul, “Let the richest
blessings descend from the Highest on you and yours!”
The news Mr. Stanley had to tell was thrilling. The mighty
political changes on the Continent; the success of the Atlantic
cables; the election of General Grant, and many other topics’
riveted my attention for days together, and had an immediate and
beneficial effect on my health. I had been without news from
home for years save what I could glean from a few ‘Saturday
Reviews’ and ‘Punch’ of 1868. The appetite revived, and in a
week I began to feel strong again.
Mr. Stanley brought a most kind and encouraging despatch from
Lord Clarendon (whose loss I sincerely deplore), the first I have
received from the Foreign Office since 1866, and information that
the British Government had kindly sent a thousand pounds sterling
to my aid. Up to his arrival I was not aware of any pecuniary
aid. I came unsalaried, but this want is now happily repaired,
and I am anxious that you and all my friends should know that,
though uncheered by letter, I have stuck to the task which my
friend Sir Roderick Murchison set me with “John Bullish” tenacity,
believing that all would come right at last.
The watershed of South Central Africa is over seven hundred wiles
in length. The fountains thereon are almost innumerable—that is,
it would take a man’s lifetime to count them. From the watershed
they converge into four large rivers, and these again into two
mighty streams in the great Nile valley, which begins in ten degrees
to twelve degrees south latitude. It was long ere light dawned on
the ancient problem and gave me a clear idea of the drainage. I had
to feel my way, and every step of the way, and was, generally,
groping in the dark—for who cared where the rivers ran? “We drank
our fill and let the rest run by.”
The Portuguese who visited Cazembe asked for slaves and ivory, and
heard of nothing else. I asked about the waters, questioned and
cross-questioned, until I was almost afraid of being set down as
afflicted with hydrocephalus.
My last work, in which I have been greatly hindered from want of
suitable attendants, was following the central line of drainage
down through the country of the cannibals, called Manyuema, or,
shortly Manyema. This line of drainage has four large lakes in
it. The fourth I was near when obliged to turn. It is from one
to three miles broad, and never can be reached at any point, or
at any time of the year. Two western drains, the Lufira, or Bartle
Frere’s River, flow into it at Lake Kamolondo. Then the great
River Lomame flows through Lake Lincoln into it too, and seems
to form the western arm of the Nile, on which Petherick traded.
Now, I knew about six hundred miles of the watershed, and
unfortunately the seventh hundred is the most interesting of the
whole; for in it, if I am not mistaken, four fountains arise from
an earthen mound, and the last of the four becomes, at no great
distance off, a large river.
Two of these run north to Egypt, Lufira and Lomame, and two run
south into inner Ethiopia, as the Leambaye, or Upper Zambezi, and
the Kaful.
Are not these the sources of the Nile mentioned by the Secretary
of Minerva, in the city of Sais, to Herodotus?
I have heard of them so often, and at great distances off, that I
cannot doubt their existence, and in spite of the sore longing for
home that seizes me every time I think of my family, I wish to
finish up by their rediscovery.
Five hundred pounds sterling worth of goods have again
unaccountably been entrusted to slaves, and have been over a year
on the way, instead of four months. I must go where they lie at
your expense, ere I can put the natural completion to my work.
And if my disclosures regarding the terrible Ujijian slavery
should lead to the suppression of the East Coast slave trade, I
shall regard that as a greater matter by far than the discovery
of all the Nile sources together. Now that you have done with
domestic slavery for ever, lend us your powerful aid toward this
great object. This fine country is blighted, as with a curse from
above, in order that the slavery privileges of the petty Sultan
of Zanzibar may not be infringed, and the rights of the Crown of
Portugal, which are mythical, should be kept in abeyance till some
future time when Africa will become another India to Portuguese
slave-traders.
I conclude by again thanking you most cordially for your great
generosity, and am,
Gratefully yours,
David Livingstone.
To the above letter I have nothing to add—it speaks for itself;
but I then thought it was the best evidence of my success. For
my own part, I cared not one jot or tittle about his discoveries,
except so far as it concerned the newspaper which commissioned me
for the “search.” It is true I felt curious as to the result of his
travels; but, since he confessed that he had not completed what he
had begun, I felt considerable delicacy to ask for more than he
could afford to give. His discoveries were the fruits of of
his own labours—to him they belonged—by their publication he
hoped to obtain his reward, which he desired to settle on his
children. Yet Livingstone had a higher and nobler ambition than
the mere pecuniary sum he would receive: he followed the
dictates of duty. Never was such a willing slave to that abstract
virtue. His inclinations impelled him home, the fascinations of
which it required the sternest resolves to resist. With every
foot of new ground he travelled over he forged a chain of sympathy
which should hereafter bind the Christian nations in bonds of love
and charity to the Heathen of the African tropics. If he were
able to complete this chain of love—by actual discovery and
description of them to embody such peoples and nations as still
live in darkness, so as to attract the good and charitable of his
own land to bestir themselves for their redemption and salvation—
this, Livingstone would consider an ample reward.
“A delirious and fatuous enterprise, a Quixotic scheme!” some will
say. Not it, my friends; for as sure as the sun shines on both
Christian and Infidel, civilised and Pagan, the day of enlightenment
will come; and, though Livingstone, the Apostle of Africa, may not
behold it himself, nor we younger men, not yet our children, the
Hereafter will see it, and posterity will recognise the daring
pioneer of its civilization.
The following items are extracted in their entirety from my Diary:
March 12th.—The Arabs have sent me as many as forty-five letters
to carry to the coast. I am turned courier in my latter days;
but the reason is that no regularly organized caravans are permitted
to leave Unyanyembe now, because of the war with Mirambo. What if
I had stayed all this time at Unyanyembe waiting for the war to end!
It is my opinion that, the Arabs will not be able to conquer Mirambo
under nine months yet.
To-night the natives have gathered themselves together to give me
a farewell dance in front of my house. I find them to be the
pagazis of Singiri, chief of Mtesa’s caravan. My men joined in,
and, captivated by the music despite myself, I also struck in, and
performed the “light fantastic,” to the intense admiration of my
braves, who were delighted to see their master unbend a little from
his usual stiffness.
It
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