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Superintendent of Documents, Washington, D. C. MEETING II
(Study pages 59-102)

Modern Methods

Visit a textile mill if possible, after studying the text.

Practice home dyeing. Read carefully the directions given by the manufacturers of the dyes. See the booklet "Diamond Dyes," to be obtained at many drug stores, or send for it to Wells Richardson, Burlington, Vermont.

References: Text-books of the American School of Correspondenceβ€”especially Textile Chemistry and Dyeing. (Parts I, II, III, and IV, postage 4c. each.)

The Dyeing of Textile Fabrics, by Hummell. ($1.75, postage 12c.)

Bleaching and Calico Printing (containing samples), by Duerr. ($4.00, postage 14c.)

Weaves and Fabrics

Show as many different kinds of weaves as possible. Separate the threads and examine under a hand microscope.

Get the local dry-goods or department store to co-operate with you in getting up an exhibit of samples of standard goodsβ€”cotton, woolen, worsted, linen, and silk. Label each sample with the width and price.

Test some of the samples of wash goods for fastness to washing and light, by washing in warm water and soap (or boiling in the soap and water) and expose to sunlight all day for three or four days. Keep a part of each sample for comparison.

(Select a composite set of answers to the Test Questions on Part I and send to the School, with report on the supplemental work done and Meetings I and II.)

MEETING III
(Study pages 107-123)

Sewing: Plain Stitches

Send to manufacturers for samples showing the process of manufacture of pins, needles, etc.

Demonstrate different ways of making the same stitches; discuss best methods.

Embroidery

Show how all the embroidery stitches are made.

Get up an exhibit of all kinds of embroidery, including Oriental, Japanese, old samplers, etc.

Have members make Model I, First Series.

References: Home and School Sewing, by Patton. ($0.60, postage 6c.)

School Needlework, by Hapgood. ($0.75, postage 6c.)

Manual of Exercise in Hand Sewing, by Blair. ($1.25, postage 10c.)

Topic: Educational Value of Sewing in the Public Schools.

Methods. See "A Sewing Course," by Mary S. Woolman, Introduction ($3.50, postage 20c.), and "The Teaching of Domestic Science in the United States of America," by Alice Ravenhill, pages 9-10, 43-46. ($0.75, postage 12c.)

MEETING IV
(Study pages 123-165)

Hems, Seams, Fastenings, Darning, Patching

Have all members make models II, III, IV, and V.

Previously assign members to furnish models or examples of all other hems, seams, fastenings, patches, darns, etc., illustrated or described in the text, and as many more as possible.

Machine Sewing

Get the local sewing machine agent to give a demonstration of the workings of the attachments of the machine.

(Select models and answers to Test Questions on Part II and send them to the School, with a report of Meetings III and IV.)

MEETING V
(Study pages 167-200)

Dressmaking

Get the local dry-goods or department store to lend different kinds of dress forms.

Show how patterns are altered to suit the figure. (See text and "Dressmaking Up to Date.")

As many as possible cut out and begin making a simple shirt-waist or skirt. Show finished garment at next meeting, giving accurate account of cost and time spent.

References: Dressmaking Up to Date, The Butterick Co. ($0.25, postage 8c.)

Sewing and Garment Drafting, by Margaret L. Blair. ($1.25, postage 12c.)

MEETING VI
(Study pages 205-228)

Construction and Ornament in Dress; Color

Collect illustrations showing good and faulty ornamentation.

Procure samples of fabrics showing good and faulty ornamentation.

Make a color card showing contrast and harmony of color. (See Question 11.)

References: See list on pages 234 and 235.

Children's Clothing

Get up an exhibit of simple and satisfactory clothing for children, including color, material, style and make.

Discuss children's clothes in reference to laundering.

Care and Repair of Clothes

Show examples of successful repairing.

Try some of the methods of cleaning. (See, also Chemistry of the Household pages 73-84.)

(Select answers to Test Questions on Part III and send them to the School, with report on Meetings V and VI.)

INDEX

Adulteration of linen, 87

Alpaca, 90

Altering sleeve patterns, 194

Angora wool, 39

Aniline dyes, 79

Arrow heads, 123


Back stitch, 112

Basting, 108

Bibliography, 103, 229

Bleaching, 78

Bobbin, 19

Boning waist, 192

Bow, the, 208

Burling, 83

Bust form, 168

Button holes, 141
large, 145
making, 144

Buttons, sewing on, 145


Carding, 59

Care of clothing, 219

Cassimere twills, 73, 75

Cat stitch, 116

Catch stitch, 116

Chain stitch, 116

Checks, 213

Children's clothes, 216, 217

Cleaning, 59, 221

Collars, 198
putting on, 199

Color in dress, 214

Colors, mordant, 79

Combing, 60

Conventional designs, 213

Costumes, references, 234

Cotton, 29
boles, 32
fibers, 34

Cotton goods, 85
home of, 30
Nankin, 34
sea island, 30
upland, 30

Cross stitch, 120

Cuffs, 196

Cutting table, 168


Darning, 155
on machine, 158
over net, 157

Decorations, placing, 208

Distaff, 12

Double cloth, 77

Draped waist, 192

Drawing tapes, 140

Dressmaking, 167

Dyeing, 78
home, 80

Dyes, aniline, 79

Dyestuffs, natural, 80


Embroidery, 204
as ornament, 204
eyelet, 122
shadow, 123
stitches, 114

Extension hem, 227

Eyelet embroidery, 122

Eyelets, 149


Fabrics, 85
list of, 96 -102
names of, 94
primitive, 27
width of, 93

Facing, bias, 141
skirt, 179

Fastening the thread, 109

Fastenings, 141

Feather stitch, 118

Fibers, 29
cotton, 29
flax, 43
silk, 53
wool, 37

Finishes, 139

Finishing skirt, 179
seams, 196
waist, 192

Finishing, woolens, 83

Fitting, 173, 193
sleeves, 190
waists, 190

Flax, 43
fibers, 47
hackling, 44, 47

Flocks, 83

Folding garments, 220

French hem, 127
knots, 119
seam, 131

Fulling, 83

Fur, 40


Gathering, 111, 138

Gathers, whipped, 127

Gauging, 112

Gigging, 83

Gingham, 86

Grease spots, 122


Hand sewing, 107

Harmony in dress, 215

Harness, the, 70

Heddle, 17

Hemp, 50

Hem stitch, 118

Hems, 123
bias, 124
faced, 124
flannel, 127
French, 127
folding, 123

Hems, rolled, 126

Herringbone stitch, 116

Home dyeing, 80

Hook and eyes, 147

Hydroscopic moisture, 42


Jacquard loom, 70

Joining lace, 160

Jute, 50


Knit goods, 72


Lace, design of, 208

Laces, use of, 207

Laundering, 225

Lengthening garments, 226

Linen, 86
adulteration of, 87
characteristics of, 47

Lining, cutting, 188

Loading silk, 56

Looms, 17
Colonial, 19, 21, 22
development of, 19
diagram of, 23
fly shuttle, 26
four harness, hand, 21
Jacquard, 70
Japanese, 20
modern, 25, 69
Navajo, 18
Swedish hand, 24

Loop stitch, 116


Madder bleach, 78

Machine darning, 158
sewing, 162

Mending, 83, 225

Mitering embroidery, 158

Modern methods, 59

Mohair, 90

Mordant colors, 79

Muslin, 85


Nankin cotton, 34

Natural dyestuffs, 80

Olona, 53

Ornament, 203
embroidery as, 204
fitness of, 209
flowers as, 205
of textiles, 212

Ornamental stitches, 108, 114

Ornamentation, errors in, 204

Outline stitch, 114

Overcasting, 114, 142

Oversewing, 113


Packing clothing, 220

Passementerie, 206

Patching, 149

Patterns, 171
altering, 173
cloth, 174
lengthening, 173
pinning, 176
placing, 176
selection of, 171
testing, 174
use of, 172

Picking, 59

Piled fabrics, 91

Plackets, 135
faced, 137

Plaids, 213

Plain material, 212

Plush, 77

Pressing, 201
board, 168, 201
wet, 202

Primitive methods, 3

Printing, 81
block, 81
machine, 81
warps, 82


Ramie, 50

Raw silk, 56

Reed, 19

Reeling silk, 54

Repairing, 225

Retting flax, 45

Roving, 61

Running stitch, 110


Sateen weave, 79

Satin, 91
stitch, 121

Scouring agents, 41

Sea island cotton, 30

Seams, 128
beaded, 131
felled, 128
flannel, 135
French, 131
lapped, 133
slot, 131

Serges, 88

Seven-gored skirt, 172

Sewing, hand, 107
machine, 162

Sewing machines, 162
care of, 162
types of, 162
use of, 164

Shadow embroidery, 123

Sheep, 39

Shirt waists, cutting, 182
plan for making, 183

Shuttle, 19

Silk, 53
artificial, 58
boiling off, 56
fiber, 53
loading, 56, 90
production, 53
raw, 56
twilled, 91

Silk, wash, 91

Silk worm, 54

Silks, 90

Singeing, 78

Skirt, 172
band, 179

Skirt binding, 180
braid, 180
making, 177
placket, 178
plan of making, 173
stiffening, 178

Sleeve making, 183
patterns, 194

Sleeves, cutting, 194, 195
finish of, 197
pressing,

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