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believe, was there a place which there was so much difficulty in arriving at: such winds, such climate, such police arrangements,โ€”arranged, too, by such fellows! six feet high, with nothing human about them but their uncleanness and ferocity! Such vexatious delays, difficulties, ordeals, through which it was necessary to pass, and to pass, too, with an air of the most perfect satisfaction and content. By the Lord! one would have imagined, at all events, it must be an earthly paradise, to be so arduous of access, instead of a Dutch-looking town, with comfortless canals, and the most terrible climate in which a civilized creature was ever frozen to death. โ€œIt is just the city a nation of bears would build, if bears ever became architects,โ€ said I to myself, as I entered the northern capital, with my teeth chattering and my limbs in a state of perfect insensibility.

My vehicle stopped, at last, at an hotel to which I had been directed. It was a circumstance, I believe, peculiar to Petersburg, that, at the time I speak of, none of its streets had a name; and if one wanted to find out a house, one was forced to do so by oral description. A pleasant thing it was, too, to stop in the middle of a street, to listen to such description at full length, and find oneโ€™s self rapidly becoming ice as the detail progressed. After I was lodged, thawed, and fed, I fell fast asleep, and slept for eighteen hours, without waking once; to my mind, it was a miracle that I ever woke again.

I then dressed myself, and taking my interpreter,โ€”who was a Livonian, a great rascal, but clever, who washed twice a week, and did not wear a beard above eight inches long,โ€”I put myself into my carriage, and went to deliver my letters of introduction. I had one in particular to the Admiral Apraxin; and it was with him that I was directed to confer, previous to seeking an interview with the Emperor. Accordingly I repaired to his hotel, which was situated on a sort of quay, and was really, for Petersburg, very magnificent. In this quarter, then or a little later, lived about thirty other officers of the court, General Jagoyinsky, General Cyernichoff, etc.; and, appropriately enough, the most remarkable public building in the vicinity is the great slaughter-house,โ€”a fine specimen that of practical satire!

On endeavouring to pass through the Admiralโ€™s hall I had the mortification of finding myself rejected by his domestics. As two men in military attire were instantly admitted, I thought this a little hard upon a man who had travelled so far to see his admiralship, and, accordingly, hinted my indignation to Mr. Muscotofsky, my interpreter.

โ€œYou are not so richly dressed as those gentlemen,โ€ said he.

โ€œThat is the reason, is it?โ€

โ€œIf it so please Saint Nicholas, it is; and, besides, those gentlemen have two men running before them to cry, โ€˜Clear the way!โ€™โ€

โ€œI had better, then, dress myself better, and take two avant couriers.โ€

โ€œIf it so please Saint Nicholas.โ€ Upon this I returned, robed myself in scarlet and gold, took a couple of lacqueys, returned to Admiral Apraxinโ€™s, and was admitted in an instant. Who would have thought these savages so like us? Appearances, you see, produce realities all over the world!

The Admiral, who was a very great man at courtโ€”though he narrowly escaped Siberia, or the knout, some time afterโ€”was civil enough to me: but I soon saw that, favourite as he was with the Czar, that great man left but petty moves in the grand chessboard of politics to be played by any but himself; and my proper plan in this court appeared evidently to be unlike that pursued in most others, where it is better to win the favourite than the prince. Accordingly, I lost no time in seeking an interview with the Czar himself, and readily obtained an appointment to that effect.

On the day before the interview took place, I amused myself with walking over the city, gazing upon its growing grandeur, and casting, in especial, a wistful eye upon the fortress or citadel, which is situated in an island, surrounded by the city, and upon the building of which more than one hundred thousand men are supposed to have perished. So great a sacrifice does it require to conquer Nature!

While I was thus amusing myself, I observed a man in a small chaise with one horse pass me twice, and look at me very earnestly. Like most of my countrymen, I do not love to be stared at; however, I thought it better in that unknown country to change my intended frown for a good-natured expression of countenance, and turned away. A singular sight now struck my attention: a couple of men with beards that would have hidden a cassowary, were walking slowly along in their curious long garments, and certainly (I say it reverently) disgracing the semblance of humanity, when, just as they came by a gate, two other men of astonishing height started forth, each armed with a pair of shears. Before a second was over, off went the beards of the first two passengers; and before another second expired, off went the skirts of their garments too: I never saw excrescences so expeditiously lopped. The two operators, who preserved a profound silence during this brief affair, then retired a little, and the mutilated wanderers pursued their way with an air of extreme discomfiture.

โ€œNothing like travel, certainly!โ€ said I, unconsciously aloud.

โ€œTrue!โ€ said a voice in English behind me. I turned, and saw the man who had noticed me so earnestly in the one horse chaise. He was a tall, robust man, dressed very plainly, and even shabbily, in a green uniform, with a narrow tarnished gold lace; and I judged him to be a foreigner, like myself, though his accent and pronunciation evidently showed that he was not a native of the country in the language of which he accosted me.

โ€œIt is very true,โ€ said he again; โ€œthere is nothing like travel!โ€

โ€œAnd travel,โ€ I rejoined courteously, โ€œin those places where travel seldom extends. I have only been six days at Petersburg, and till I came hither, I knew nothing of the variety of human nature or the power of human genius. But will you allow me to ask the meaning of the very singular occurrence we have just witnessed?โ€

โ€œOh, nothing,โ€ rejoined the man, with a broad strong smile, โ€œnothing but an attempt to make men out of brutes. This custom of shaving is not, thank Heaven, much wanted now: some years ago it was requisite to have several stations for barbers and tailors to perform their duties in. Now this is very seldom necessary; those gentlemen were especially marked out for the operation. Byโ€”โ€”โ€”โ€ (and here the man swore a hearty English and somewhat seafaring oath, which a little astonished me in the streets of Petersburg), โ€œI wish it were as easy to lop off all old customs! that it were as easy to clip the beard of the mind, Sir! Ha! ha!โ€

โ€œBut the Czar must have found a little difficulty in effecting even this outward amendment; and to say truth, I see so many beards about still that I think the reform has been more partial than universal.โ€

โ€œAh, those are the beards of the common people: the Czar leaves those for the present. Have you seen the docks yet?โ€

โ€œNo, I am not sufficiently a sailor to take much interest in them.โ€

โ€œHumph! humph! you are a soldier, perhaps?โ€

โ€œI hope to

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