How to Make a Shoe by John Parker Headley (world best books to read .TXT) ๐
Excerpt from the book:
es_ added on
Will make the toe so comfortable,
We should like to sing a song.
Will make the toe so comfortable,
We should like to sing a song.
[Illustration]
The heel we reach in perfect order,
And leave the measure neat;
Some shoes are made which look much broader
When put upon the feet.
[Illustration]
The _instep_ now we see again,
And measure as before,
One-half inch off will answer us,
No less, and not much more.
For if we do we are apt to find
The place where shoes do pinch;
Across the _ball_ we're now inclined,
Still measuring by the inch.
[Illustration]
This is at times a tender spot:
Bunions develop there;
And when they do 'tis not forgot,
We may be e'er so fair.
One-quarter _size_ we leave off here,
As on our way we go,
Travelling on, without a fear,
Until we reach the toe.
[Illustration]
Another quarter we would say,
At this point we may drop,
For we are now quite far away
From the ankle and the top.
But further ye
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id="png.041"/>[p41]
The union of thread and bristle, now,
The union of thread and bristle, now,
Will keep us to our text,
For from this youโll no doubt see
What is coming next.
The bristle is split a little oโer half way,
The bristle is split a little oโer half way,
In the left hand has its place,
Between the finger and thumb to play
An important part in the race.
One-half over the forefinger you see,
One-half over the forefinger you see,
Held in place by the next,
The thread and bristle both agree
To be thus placed is best.
Do not split but roll it on,
Do not split but roll it on,
Some have said and done,
By waxing the bristle where the other is split,
And continued from sun to sun.
[p43]
Now either way to start will do,
[p42]
Twisting the thread
[p43]
Now either way to start will do,
As much depends on twisting,
The hairy part is left for you
To make sort of whisting.
Back to the scene from whence we came,
Back to the scene from whence we came,
With our end in place to hasten,
Make a hole quite through the thread,
The point pass through and fasten.
[p45]
So much about the bristle said,
[p44]
A crooked awl
[p45]
So much about the bristle said,
No doubt youโll think it strange
That needles are not used insteadโ
Some have tried the change.
They may be used with good effect,
They may be used with good effect,
In sewing through and through;
But when we use a crooked awl,
The bristle stands by true.
[p47]
One more remark about the end
[p46]
Finding the middle
[p47]
One more remark about the end
We thus have kept in view,
To find the middle is the thing
Now left for us to do.
Not very hard, but easy quite;
Not very hard, but easy quite;
In the left hand even jointsโ
The right hand holding the other end,
This fills up all the points.
[p49]
Another change in things takes place,
[p48]
Clamping
[p49]
Another change in things takes place,
This time the clamps appear;
Between the knees they run their race,
And hold the upper dear.
The vamp and quarters as they were pasted,
The vamp and quarters as they were pasted,
Are seen now in their place;
The vamp extending above the clamps,
With the quarters easy to trace.
Begin to sew at extreme end;
Begin to sew at extreme end;
Put left-hand bristle first in;
Across the vamp our sewing extend,
Two rows that may be seen.
[p51]
This nicely done, just change a little;
[p50]
Sewing the quarter
[p51]
This nicely done, just change a little;
The position is clearly seen
When we have this quarter stitched near the back,
Say half inch in between,
Pull through one thread and tie it tight,
On the inside to be left;
Begin to sew the other quarter,
Close at the vamp is right.
[p53]
Sew to the back, and then begin
[p52]
Sewing
[p53]
Sew to the back, and then begin
Another row up the front;
Sew to the top, โtwill be no sin,
But the doing of what is wont.
These rows, half an inch apart,
These rows, half an inch apart,
Will serve the present state,
Because now we have a splendid start,
And getting on first rate.
Then down the front on the other side,
Then down the front on the other side,
To the vamp be sure to go;
Never allow your work to slide,
But take it out just so.
[p55]
The front is sewed, the back is not,
[p54]
Trimming the back seam
[p55]
The front is sewed, the back is not,
But it will be very soon;
This must never be forgot,
As it takes up part the room.
The out-sides together at the back are seen,
The out-sides together at the back are seen,
As we are about to sew
A little strip, put in between,
To make it stronger grow.
Down to the bottom weโll sew the way,
Down to the bottom weโll sew the way,
Until it is complete;
Then trim the seam, and rub it well
With a bone found on the seat.
[p57]
You will observe the back is changed,
[p56]
Whipping down the leather
[p57]
You will observe the back is changed,
The linings are together;
This can be quite well arranged
By whipping down this leather.
Either whipping over and over, or through and through,
Either whipping over and over, or through and through,
Just as the case may be;
Neither way is very new
As we may clearly see.
But we should do it, and rub down flat,
But we should do it, and rub down flat,
For now the time has come
When we have had enough of that,
And our upper is near done.
[p59]
The upper has now its right side out,
[p58]
Stitching the top of the back
[p59]
The upper has now its right side out,
โRight-side out with care;โ
A little stitching at the top of the back
Will make it look quite fair.
We stopped stitching, you remember well,
Before we reached the back,
When on the quarters we did dwell,
And left a vacant track.
[p61]
That track now is filled up well,
[p60]
Finishing the upper
[p61]
That track now is filled up well,
Yet we do hold it fast,
Knowing that a time will come
To put it on the last.
Before that time is reached, however,
Before that time is reached, however,
The eyelets, bear in mind,
Should each be put in proper place,
So that the holes we find
Will let the strings pass easily through,
When punched and set in straight;
We have now the upper for our shoe,
Do try and make the mate.
[p63]
This upper completed by the past,
[p62]
The completed upper
[p63]
This upper completed by the past,
Has made it much a treasure,
For we must also have a last,
And fit it up to measure.
Since we have kept our seat so long,
Since we have kept our seat so long,
A change may rest our back;
So at the bench weโll take our stand,
Close by our friend, the jack.
The Bailey jack is the name of this
The Bailey jack is the name of this
One, screwed down upon the post;
For general use it will not miss,
But serve our end the most.
[p65]
Lasts are made of many woods,
[p64]
At the bench, checking the last
[p65]
Lasts are made of many woods,
Of ash, of oak, and maple;
Well seasoned is this stock of goods,
Some kinds are very staple.
Some are made with iron plates,
To clinch the screw or nail,
But when we would a peg shoe make,
To use these plates would fail.
Made, also, for men and boys,
Women and girls, for each
Has on this art a special claim,
Their feet to train and teach.
To dwell here longer would not do,
The last we wantโs in the hand;
Weโll measure the same as we did the foot,
And thus our trade command.
The length, you know, is measured first;
Two sizes added on
Will make the toe so comfortable,
We should like to sing a song.
[p67]
The heel we reach in perfect order,
[p66]
Checking the heel measurement of the last
[p67]
The heel we reach in perfect order,
And leave the measure neat;
Some shoes are made which look much broader
When put upon the feet.
[p69]
The instep now we see again,
[p68]
Checking the instep measurement of the last
[p69]
The instep now we see again,
And measure as before,
One-half inch off will answer us,
No less, and not much more.
For if we do we are apt to find
The place where shoes do pinch;
Across the ball weโre now inclined,
Still measuring by the inch.
[p71]
This is at times a tender spot:
[p70]
Checking the measurement of the last around the ball of the foot
[p71]
This is at times a tender spot:
Bunions develop there;
And when they do โtis not forgot,
We may be eโer so fair.
One-quarter size we leave off here,
As on our way we go,
Travelling on, without a fear,
Until we reach the toe.
[p73]
Another quarter we would say,
[p72]
Checking the toe measurement of the last
[p73]
Another quarter we would say,
At this point we may drop,
For we are now quite far away
From the ankle and the top.
But further yet, we are bound to go,
But further yet, we are bound to go,
The bottom must be reached,
Where soles are made and often saved,
โThough the saver be impeached.
The last we put upon a side
The last we put upon a side
Of white or red sole leather,
And mark with knife, or pencil wide,
The parts of sole together.
The parts are known, each one defined,
The parts are known, each one defined,
Inner and outer sole;
A middle one, when we are kind,
Lifts and shank piece make the whole.
[p75]
The inner sole on the last is put,
[p74]
The inner sole pegged to the last
[p75]
The inner sole on the last is put,
The pegs just where you see
Keep the sole where it belongs,
In order to agree.
The edge is bevelled from heel to heel;
The edge is bevelled from heel to heel;
The mark across the breast
Shows us when and where we may
Take a little rest.
[p77]
The upper straight upon the last,
[p76]
Placing the upper over the last
[p77]
The upper straight upon the last,
With the seams appearing right,
The stiffening smooth just at the back,
Will draw upon our sight.
This should be done when we begin
This should be done when we begin
To draw the upper over,
So that the last in all its parts
Shall have a proper cover.
[p79]
Draw steady, until we have it close
[p78]
Drawing the upper over the last
[p79]
Draw steady, until we have it close
At the heel and at the toe;
If these parts should be too loose
It would nearly spoil the shoe.
Draw steady, or youโll make a crack,
Draw steady, or youโll make a crack,
Which will there remain;
Perhaps may cause us to go back,
And do it over again.
[p81]
The upper, in the way described,
[p80]
Fastening the upper to the sole
[p81]
The upper, in the way described,
Drawn gently at the toe,
We hold it down with our left thumb,
While a peg we try make go.
On either side of the toe now work,
On either side of the toe now work,
And in the same way fasten
The upper down upon the sole;
To the heel we now must hasten.
[p83]
Let the upper at the seam
[p82]
Tacking the upper at the seam
[p83]
Let the upper at the seam
Have now a secure tack;
The stiffening, all straight in between
The lining and the back.
Be sure you get the lining smooth,
The part inside the shoe;
If it is not, you may sometime
Have a thing to make you blue.
[p85]
Now put the shoe upon the bench,
[p84]
Closing the front
[p85]
Now put the shoe upon the bench,
In the way shown in the cut;
And with a string and button
Use care to close the front.
We no doubt now do see the thing
We no doubt now do see the thing
Taking on a shape,
Which, in the end, will surely bring
Us clear out of the scrape.
[p87]
The shoe is now placed on the jack;
[p86]
The shoe now placed on the jack
[p87]
The shoe is now placed on the jack;
A hole, for the pin in the last,
Serves to keep the same intact,
While the toe piece holds it fast.
Now at the breast, draw over outside,
Now at the breast, draw over outside,
Close upon the sole;
Take your time, for somethingโs gained,
While filling up the hole.
The awl, you see, should not be large;
The awl, you see, should not be large;
In lasting use small pegs;
Just drive them through the inner sole,
No danger of your legs.
[p89]
We will now note the difference:
[p88]
Using the thumbs while lasting
[p89]
We will now note the difference:
The inside shank is longer;
If we would last it very smooth,
We must pull all the stronger.
The thumbs at this are very clever,
When their part is nicely played,
Serving as a splendid lever,
While working in the shade.
[p91]
We are now at the inside ballโ
[p90]
Lasting the inside ball
[p91]
We are now at the inside ballโ
Be careful not to scratch it;
When in position we are found
We are more apt to catch it.
When this weโve caught, and feel safe to leave
When this weโve caught, and feel safe to leave
For the other side,
Weโll find the heel where the toe has been,
By this we must abide.
[p93]
Everything quite in its place,
[p92]
Lasting the upper at the toe
[p93]
Everything quite in its place,
The future for us yet;
Letโs last the upper all around,
โTill at the toe we get.
Still using awl in pincer hand,
Still using awl in pincer hand,
Alternating endly,
For at this post weโve taken stand
To grow up very friendly.
[p94]
Crimps at toe and heel
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