How to Make a Shoe by John Parker Headley (world best books to read .TXT) π
Excerpt from the book:
es_ added on
Will make the toe so comfortable,
We should like to sing a song.
Will make the toe so comfortable,
We should like to sing a song.
[Illustration]
The heel we reach in perfect order,
And leave the measure neat;
Some shoes are made which look much broader
When put upon the feet.
[Illustration]
The _instep_ now we see again,
And measure as before,
One-half inch off will answer us,
No less, and not much more.
For if we do we are apt to find
The place where shoes do pinch;
Across the _ball_ we're now inclined,
Still measuring by the inch.
[Illustration]
This is at times a tender spot:
Bunions develop there;
And when they do 'tis not forgot,
We may be e'er so fair.
One-quarter _size_ we leave off here,
As on our way we go,
Travelling on, without a fear,
Until we reach the toe.
[Illustration]
Another quarter we would say,
At this point we may drop,
For we are now quite far away
From the ankle and the top.
But further ye
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id="png.095"/>[p95]
The toe has crimps, some in the heel;
The toe has crimps, some in the heel;
The first is more important,
Because the toe is always seen;
If rough becomes discordant.
These crimps are made from left to right,
These crimps are made from left to right,
And right to left we go;
Then scallop them, when to be pegged,
Not so when it we sew.
[p97]
The shank piece in, the bottom filled,
[p96]
Shank piece
[p97]
The shank piece in, the bottom filled,
With crimps cut as was said,
Already for the middle sole,
Which forms an even bed,
On which we lay the outer sole;
The thing we look for next,
Is moulded near the upper close,
And comes quite near our text.
[p99]
The middle sole will make us have
[p98]
Middle sole
[p99]
The middle sole will make us have
A better understanding,
And help protect our feet from frost,
While we the trade commanding.
A strap is used around the foot,
A strap is used around the foot,
The shoe upon the knee;
To mould the sole, as we have said,
These parts should all agree.
[p101]
When moulded good, edge full from last,
[p100]
Marking the sole for pegs
[p101]
When moulded good, edge full from last,
Trim the sole prepared;
Then make a line for pegs to go,
For in this we have shared.
We to our old friend jack make haste,
We to our old friend jack make haste,
With our awl and hammer bright;
Begin to peg on the line weβve markedβ
Six to the inch is right.
[p103]
Two rows around, just in between,
[p102]
Pegging the sole
[p103]
Two rows around, just in between,
Each other they are put;
Use them long enough to go clear through,
But save them from the foot.
The awl-hand picks up the pegs,
The awl-hand picks up the pegs,
The hammer-hand now takes,
Between forefinger and the thumb,
And for the hole it makes.
By repeating this we soon shall have
By repeating this we soon shall have
Our work ready for a lift;
But first, smooth pegs and trim heel-seat,
Or weβll move along too swift.
[p105]
The first lift on, weβll leave it full,
[p104]
Building the heel
[p105]
The first lift on, weβll leave it full,
Making the centre level;
With our knife in hand, not very dull,
We are prepared to bevel.
In this way the heel is built,
In this way the heel is built,
One lift upon the other;
Pegging each will add no guilt,
But save our subject bother.
Piece by piece, until we stop
Piece by piece, until we stop
At the proper height;
A solid piece used for the top
Will make it finish right.
[p107]
Nails are driven, both iron and steel,
[p106]
Heel and sole nailed
[p107]
Nails are driven, both iron and steel,
Around the top, in mind,
And on the outside some prefer
A few more nails to find.
Hammer solid both heel and sole
Hammer solid both heel and sole
Level as it can be;
Whittle the heel down to a size
Close to the nails youβll see.
[p109]
The heel-shave is a tool so good,
[p108]
Using the heel-shave
[p109]
The heel-shave is a tool so good,
To smooth the heel up nice;
For when around it you have gone,
Its work will here suffice.
Cut down the breast, make it square,
Cut down the breast, make it square,
Sand-paper it, if you please;
Then change position very fair,
And done with perfect ease.
[p111]
Take out the welt with a knife to suit,
[p110]
Taking out the welt with a knife
[p111]
Take out the welt with a knife to suit,
Do not cut the upper;
This same thing is done to the boot,
And neither has to suffer.
These tools are bought in stores,
These tools are bought in stores,
Known to the craft as βfinding;β
Some are here from foreign shores,
Which serve us a binding.
[p113]
A small knife take, and trim the edge
[p112]
Trimming the edge
[p113]
A small knife take, and trim the edge
From the heel, around the toe,
Down to the heel on the other sideβ
Our shoe begins to show.
The bottom buffed, all but the top,
The bottom buffed, all but the top,
Sand-paper all, now, we think;
Just mark a place across the shank
To be blackened well with the ink.
[p115]
The bottom in this shape has come,
[p114]
The finished bottom
[p115]
The bottom in this shape has come,
And looks as if weβve parted;
But thatβs not so, as we well know
We are nearer than when we started.
The ink when burnished with hot kitβ
The ink when burnished with hot kitβ
A little heel ball is the thing
To use, so that it will be fit
To put upon a king.
[p117]
Our jack and company seen again,
[p116]
Burnishing the heel
[p117]
Our jack and company seen again,
The last time for the present;
To part, perhaps, will give us pain;
Perhaps be very pleasant.
A burnisher for the heel, behold!
A burnisher for the heel, behold!
Use briskly when we finish,
For this tale is nearly told,
Its parts seem to diminish.
Many parts have made the whole,
Many parts have made the whole,
Some parts are much effected;
But when the parts are whole in one,
They do become respected.
[p119]
The end is reached, we trust all safe,
[p118]
Finished shoe
[p119]
The end is reached, we trust all safe,
After quite a travel;
Though the road was rough from place to place,
The thread did not unravel.
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J. P. H., Jr.
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