The Physiology of Taste by Brillat Savarin (suggested reading .TXT) 📕

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route, and it is precipitated into the stomach to undergo ulterior

transformations, without the most minute fragment during the whole

of this escaping. Every drop every atom has been appreciated.

 

In consequence of this perfection, gourmandise is the exclusive

apanage of man.

 

This gourmandise is even contagious, and we impart it without

difficulty to the animals we have appropriated to our use, and

which in a manner associate with us, such as elephants, dogs,

cats, and parrots even.

 

Besides taste requiring to be estimated only by the value of the

sensation it communicates to the common centre, the impression

received by the animal cannot be compared to that imparted to man.

The latter is more precise and clear, and necessarily supposes a

superior quality in the organ which transmits it.

 

In fine, what can we desire in a faculty susceptible of such

perfection that the gourmands of Rome were able to distinguish the

flavors of fish taken above and below the bridge? Have we not seen

in our own time, that gourmands can distinguish the flavor of the

thigh on which the partridge lies down from the other? Are we not

surrounded by gourmets who can tell the latitude in which any wine

ripened as surely as one of Biot’s or Arago’s disciples can

foretell an eclipse?

 

The consequence then is that we must render to Caesar the things

which are Caesar’s and proclaim man the great GOURMAND OF NATURE,

and not be surprised if the good Doctor does sometimes as Homer

did:—“Much zumeilen ichlafert der gute.”

 

METHOD OF THE AUTHOR.

 

As yet we have treated the taste only from the physical point of

view, and in some anatomical details which none will regret, we

have remained pari passu with science. This does not however

conclude the task we have imposed on ourselves, for from its usual

attributes especially does this reparatory sense derive its

importance.

 

We have then arranged in analytical order the theories and facts

which compose the ensemble of this history, so that instruction

without fatigue will result from it.

 

Thus in the following chapters, we will often show how sensations

by repetition and reflection have perfected the organs and

extended the sphere of our powers. How the want of food, once a

mere instinct, has become a passion which has assumed a marked

ascendency of all that belongs to society

 

We will also say, how all sciences which have to do with the

composition of substances, have agreed to place in a separate

category all those appreciable to the taste; and how travellers

have followed in the same pathway when they placed before us

substances nature apparently never meant us to see.

 

We will follow chemistry to the very moment when it penetrated our

subterraneous laboratories to enlighten our PREPARERS, to

establish principles, to create methods and to unveil causes which

had remained occult.

 

In fine we will see by the combined power of time and experience

that a new science has all at once appeared, which feeds,

nourishes, restores, preserves, persuades, consoles, and not

content with strewing handsfull of flowers over the individual,

contributes much to the power and prosperity of empires.

 

If, amid the grave lucubrations, a piquante anecdote, or an

agreeable reminiscence of a stormy life drips from my pen, we will

let it remain to enable the attention to rest for a moment, so

that our readers, the number of whom does not alarm us, may have

time to breathe. We would like to chat with them. If they be men

we know they are indulgent as they are well informed. If women

they must be charming. [Footnote: Here the Professor, full of his

subject, suffers his hand to fall and rises to the seventh heaven.

He ascends the torrent of ages, and takes from their cradle all

sciences, the object of which is the gratification of taste. He

follows their progress through the night of time and seeing that

in the pleasures they procure us, early centures were not so great

as those which followed them: he takes his lyre and sings in the

Dorian style the elegy which will be found among the varieties at

the end of the volume.]

 

MEDITATION III.

 

GASTRONOMY.

 

ORIGIN OF SCIENCES.

 

THE sciences are not like Minerva who started ready armed from the

brain of Jupiter. They are children of time and are formed

insensibly by the collection of the methods pointed out by

experience, and at a later day by the principles deduced from the

combination of these methods.

 

Thus old men, the prudence of whom caused them to be called to the

bed-side of invalids, whose compassion taught to cure wounds, were

the first physicians.

 

The shepherds of Egypt, who observed that certain stars after the

lapse of a certain period of time met in the heavens, were the

first astronomers.

 

The person who first uttered in simple language the truth, 2 + 2 =

4 created mathematics, that mighty science which really placed man

on the throne of the universe.

 

In the course of the last sixty years, many new sciences have

taken their place in the category of our knowledge, among which is

stereotomy, descriptive geometry, and the chemistry of gas.

 

All sciences cultivated for a long time must advance, especially

as the art of printing makes retrogression impossible. Who knows,

for instance, if the chemistry of gases will not ultimately

overcome those, as yet, rebellious substances, mingle and combine

them in proportions not as yet tempted, and thence obtain

substances and effects which would remove many restrictions in our

powers.

 

ORIGIN OF GASTRONOMY.

 

Gastronomy has at last appeared, and all the sister sciences have

made a way for it.

 

Well; what could be refused to that which sustains us, from the

cradle to the grave, which increases the gratifications of love

and the confidence of friendship which disarms hatred and offers

us, in the short passage of our lives, the only pleasure which not

being followed by fatigue makes us weary of all others.

 

Certainly, as long as it was confided to merely hired attendants,

as long as the secret was kept in cellars, and where dispensaries

were written, the results were but the products of an art.

 

At last, too late, perhaps, savants drew near.

 

They examined, analyzed, and classified alimentary substances, and

reduced them to simple elements.

 

They measured the mysteries of assimilation, and following most

matter in all its metamorphoses saw how it became vivified.

 

They watched diet in its temporary and permanent effects, for

days, months and lives.

 

They even estimated its influence and thought to ascertain if the

savor he impressed by the organs or if it acts without them. From

all this they deduced a lofty theory which embraces all mankind,

and all that portion of creation which may be animalized.

 

While all this was going on in the studies of savants, it was said

in drawing-rooms that the science which fed man was at least as

valuable as that which killed him. Poets sang the pleasures of the

table and books, the object of which was good cheer, awakened the

greatest and keenest interest in the profound views and maxims

they presented.

 

Such were the circumstances which preceded the invention of

gastronomy.

 

DEFINITION OF GASTRONOMY.

 

Gastronomy is a scientific definition of all that relates to man

as a feeding animal.

 

Its object is to watch over the preservation of man by means of

the best possible food.

 

It does so by directing, according to certain principles, all

those who procure, search for, or prepare things which may be

converted into food.

 

To tell the truth this is what moves cultivators, vine-dressers,

fishermen, huntsmen, and the immense family of cooks, whatever

title or qualification they bear, to the preparation of food.

 

Gastronomy is a chapter of natural history, for the fact that it

makes a classification of alimentary substances.

 

Of physics, for it examines their properties and qualities.

 

Of chemistry, from the various analysis and decomposition to which

it subjects them.

 

Of cookery, from the fact that it prepares food and makes it

agreeable.

 

Of commerce, from the fact that it purchases at as low a rate as

possible what it consumes, and displays to the greatest advantage

what it offers for sale.

 

Lastly it is a chapter of political economy, from the resources it

furnishes the taxing power, and the means of exchange it

substitutes between nations.

 

Gastronomy rules all life, for the tears of the infant cry for the

bosom of the nurse; the dying man receives with some degree of

pleasure the last cooling drink, which, alas! he is unable to

digest.

 

It has to do with all classes of society, for if it presides over

the banquets of assembled kings, it calculates the number of

minutes of ebullition which an egg requires.

 

The material of gastronomy is all that may be eaten; its object is

direct, the preservation of individuals. Its means of execution

are cultivation, which produces; commerce, which exchanges;

industry, which prepares; and experience, which teaches us to put

them to the best use.

 

DIFFERENT OBJECTS OF GASTRONOMY.

 

Gastronomy considers taste in its pleasures and in its pains. It

has discovered the gradual excitements of which it is susceptible;

it regularizes its action, and has fixed limits, which a man who

respects himself will never pass.

 

It also considers the action of food or aliments on the moral of

man, on his imagination, his mind, his judgment, his courage, and

his perceptions, whether he is awake, sleeps, acts, or reposes.

 

Gastronomy determines the degree of esculence of every alimentary

subject; all are not presentable under the same circumstances.

 

Some can be eaten until they are entirely developed. Such like as

capres, asparagus, sucking pigs, squabs, and other animals eaten

only when they are young.

 

Others, as soon as they have reached all the perfection to which

they are destined, like melons, fruit, mutton, beef, and grown

animals. Others when they begin to decompose, such as snipe, wood-cock and pheasant. Others not until cooking has destroyed all

their injurious properties, such as the potato, manioc, and other

substances.

 

Gastronomy classifies all of these substances according to their

qualities, and indicates those which will mingle, and measuring

the quantity of nourishment they contain, distinguishes those

which should make the basis of our repast, from those which are

only accessories, and others which, though not necessary, are an

agreeable relief, and become the obligato accompaniment of

convivial gossip.

 

It takes no less interest in the beverages intended for us,

according to time, place and climate. It teaches their preparation

and preservation, and especially presents them in an order so

exactly calculated, that the pleasure perpetually increases, until

gratification ends and abuse begins.

 

Gastronomy examines men and things for the purpose of

transporting, from one country to another, all that deserves to be

known, and which causes a well arranged entertainment, to be an

abridgement of the world in which each portion is represented.

 

UTILITY OF GASTRONOMICAL KNOWLEDGE.

 

Gastronomical knowledge is necessary to all men, for it tends to

augment the sum of happiness. This utility becomes the greater in

proportion as it is used by the more comfortable classes of

society; it is indispensable to those who have large incomes, and

entertain a great deal, either because in this respect they

discharge an obligation, follow their own inclination, or yield to

fashion.

 

They have this special advantage, that they take personal pleasure

in the manner their table is kept; they can, to a certain point,

superintend the depositories of their confidence, and even on many

occasions direct them.

 

The Prince