The Art of Perfumery by George William Septimus Piesse (english readers .TXT) π
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s. Among the nations ofantiquity, an offering of perfumes was regarded as a token of the mostprofound respect and homage. Incense, or Frankincense, which exudes byincision and dries as a gum, from _Arbor-thurifera_, was formerly burntin the temples of all religions, in honor of the divinities that werethere adored. Many of the primitive Christians were put to death becausethey would not offer incense to idols.
"Of the use of these luxuries by the Greeks, and afterwards by theRomans, Pliny and Seneca gives much information respecting perfumedrugs, the method of collecting them, and the prices at which theysold. Oils and powder perfumery were most lavishly used, for eventhree times a day did some of the luxurious people anoint andscent themselves, carrying their precious perfumes with them tothe baths in costly and elegant boxes called NARTHECIA."
In the Romish Church incense is used in many ceremonies, andparticularly at the solemn funerals of the hierarchy, and o
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exclude from the term perfumery, "groceries, &c.," the et cætera meaning, I presume, "confectionery," because perfumery has to do with one of the senses, smelling, while groceries, &c., are distinguishable by another, taste; and had not our physical faculties clearly made the distinction, commerce and manufactures would have defined them: I therefore repeat, that the artificial essences of fruits are not used in perfumery, as stated in No. 47, from the quoted authorities. If any man can deny this assertion, let him now do so, "or forever after hold his peace," at least upon this subject. The "Journal of the Society of Arts" is not a medium of mere controversy. If a statement be made in error, let truth correct it, which, if gain-sayed, it should be done, not under the veil of an anonymous correspondent, but with a name to support the assertion. Science has to deal with tangible facts and figures, to the political alone belongs the anonymous ink-spiller.
I am, sir, yours faithfully,
Septimus Piesse.
42 Chapel Street, Edgware Road.
Septimus Piesse.
42 Chapel Street, Edgware Road.
[If the word flavor had been used by the various authors who have written upon this subject, in place of the word perfume, the dissemination of an erroneous idea would have been prevented: the word perfume, applied to pear-oil, pine-apple oil, &c., implies, and the general tenor of the remarks of the writers leads the reader to infer, that these substances are used by perfumers, who not only do not, but cannot use them in their trade.
But for flavoring nectar, lozenges, sweetmeats, &c., these ethers, or oils as the writers term them, are extensively used, and quite in accordance with assertions of Hoffman, Playfair, Fehling, and Bastick. However, the glorious achievements of modern chemistry have not lost anything by this misapplication of a trade term.βSeptimus Piesse.]
OTTOS FROM PLANTS. Quantities of Ottos, otherwise Essential oils, yielded by various Plants.
Pounds
Of otto.
Orange-peel,
10 yield about
1 oz.
Dry marjoram herb,
20 "
3 oz.
Fresh " "
100 "
3 oz.
" Peppermint,
100 "
3 to 4 oz.
Dry "
25 "
3 to 4 oz.
" Origanum,
25 "
2 to 3 oz.
" Thyme,
20 "
1 to 1-1/2 oz.
" Calamus,
25 "
3 to 4 oz.
Anise-seed,
25 "
9 to 12 oz.
Caraway,
25 "
16 oz.
Cloves,
1 "
2-1/2 oz.
Cinnamon,
25 "
3 oz.
Cassia,
25 "
3 oz.
Cedar-wood,
28 "
4 oz.
Mace,
2 "
3 oz.
Nutmegs,
2 "
3 to 4 oz.
Fresh balm herb,
60 "
1 to 1-1/2 oz.
Cake of bitter almond,
14 "
1 oz.
Sweet flag root,
112 "
16 oz.
Geranium leaves,
112 "
2 oz.
Lavender flowers,
112 "
30 to 32 oz.
Myrtle leaves,
112 "
5 oz.
Patchouly herb,
112 "
28 oz.
Province rose blossom,
112 "
1-1/2 to 2 drachms.
Rhodium-wood,
112 "
3 to 4 oz.
Santal-wood,
112 "
30 oz.
Vitivert or kus-kus-root,
112 "
15 oz.
WEIGHTS AND MEASURES.
French Weights and Measures compared with English.
Imperial
Troy
Kilo-
Lbs.
Litres.
Gallons.
Grammes.
Grains.
grammes.
Avoird.
1,
0.22010
1,
15.434
1,
2.20486
2,
0.44019
2,
30.868
2,
4.40971
3,
0.66029
3,
46.302
3,
6.61457
4,
0.88039
4,
61.736
4,
8.81943
5,
1.10048
5,
77.170
5,
11.02429
6,
1.32058
6,
92.604
6,
13.22914
7,
1.54068
7,
108.038
7,
15.43400
8,
1.76077
8,
123.472
8,
17.63886
9,
1.98087
9,
138.906
9,
19.84371
English Weights and Measures compared with French.
Imp.
Troy
Lbs.
Kilo-
Gallons.
Litres.
Grains.
Grammes.
Avoird.
grammes.
1,
4.54346
1,
0.06479
1,
0.45354
2,
9.08692
2,
0.12958
2,
0.90709
3,
13.63038
3,
0.19438
3,
1.36063
4,
18.17384
4,
0.25917
4,
1.81418
5,
22.71730
5,
0.32396
5,
2.26772
6,
27.26076
6,
0.38875
6,
2.72126
7,
31.80422
7,
0.45354
7,
3.17481
8,
36.34768
8,
0.51834
8,
3.62835
9,
40.89114
9,
0.58313
9,
4.08190
FOOTNOTES:
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[A] Brother of the Author.
[B] See Appendix, "Benzoic Acid."
[C] See "Incense."
[D] The duty on eau de Cologne is now, according to the last tariff, 8d. per flacon of 4 oz., or 20s. per gallon.
[E] Simple syrup consists of 3 lbs. of loaf sugar, boiled for a minute in one pint, imperial, of distilled water.
[F] The imperial measure only is recognized among perfumers.
[G] Annals of Pharmacy, vol. ii, pp. 168, 169.
[H] The deposit is nearly insoluble in water, is acid and astringent to the taste, gives an acid reaction with litmus. Spirit of wine dissolves out a small portion, which, on evaporation, leaves a thick oleo-resinous substance, having a rancid smell. Ether leaves a pleasant-smelling resin, somewhat resembling camphor. The remainder is nearly insoluble in liq. ammoniæ, liq. potassæ, more soluble in nitric acid, and well deserves to be further examined.
[I] Qy. Confectionery?
[J] Qy. Confectioners?
[K] Confectionery.
[L] The writer means ether!
[M] See "Almond."
[N] No. 49.
[O] If our Correspondent had carefully read the article he so fiercely attacks, he would have seen that the authorities were Dr. Lyon Playfair's Lecture, and Professsor Fehling, in the "Wurtemberg Journal of Industry."βEd.
[P] No. 50.
[Q] No. 52.
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