The Physiology of Taste by Brillat Savarin (suggested reading .TXT) π
AUTHOR. Perhaps.
FRIEND. Women will read your book because they will see---
AUTHOR. My dear friend, I am old, I am attacked by a fit ofwisdom. Miserere mei.
FRIEND. Gourmands will read you because you do them justice, andassign them their suitable rank in society.
AUTHOR. Well, that is true. It is strange that they have so longbeen misunderstood; I look on the dear Gourmands with paternalaffection. They are so kind and their eyes are so bright.
FRIEND. Besides, did you not tell me such a book was needed inevery library.
AUTHOR. I did. It is the truth--and I would die sooner than denyit.
FRIEND: Ah! you are convinced! You will come home with me?
AUTHOR. Not so. If there be flowers in the author's path, thereare also thorns. The latter I leave to my heirs.
FRIEND. But then you disinherit your friends, acquaintances andcotemporaries. Dare you do so?
AUTHOR. My heirs! my heirs! I have heard that shades
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dinner, slaughtered friends and enemies indiscriminately.
I have heard it said, that there were two persons in the army,
whom the general-in-chief always wished to have shot, the
commissary-in-chief and the head of his general staff. They were
both present. Cherin the chief of staff, talked back to him, and
the commissary, though he said nothing, did not think a bit the
less.
At that time, I was attached to his general staff, and always had
a plate at his table. I used, however, to go thither rarely, being
always afraid of his periodical outbreaks, and that he would send
me to dinner to finish my digestion.
I met him afterwards at Paris, and as he testified his regret that
he had not seen me oftener, I did not conceal the reason. We
laughed over the matter and he confessed that I was not wrong.
We were then at Offenbourg, and a complaint was made by the staff
that we ate no game nor fish.
This complaint was well founded, for it is a maxim, of public law,
that the conquerors should always live at the expense of the
conquered. On that very day I wrote a letter to the master of the
forests to point out a remedy.
This official was an old trooper, who doubtless was unwilling to
treat us kindly lest we should take root in this territory. His
answer was negative and evasive. The game keepers, afraid of our
soldiers, had gone, the fishermen were insubordinate, the water
muddy, etc. To all this, I said nothing, but I sent him ten
grenadiers to be lodged and fed until further orders.
The remedy was effective; for early on the next day after, I saw a
heavily loaded wagon come. The game-keepers had come back, the
fishermen were submissive; we had game and fish enough to last for
a week.
We had kid, snipe, lark, pike, etc.
When I received the offering, I freed the superintendent from his
troublesome guests, and during the whole time we remained in that
part of the country, we had nothing to complain of.
MEDITATION XVII.
REPOSE.
MAN is not made to enjoy an indefinite activity; nature has
destined him to a variable existence, and his perceptions must end
after a certain time. This time of activity may be prolonged, by
varying the nature of the perceptions to be experienced, and a
continuity of life brings about a desire for repose.
Repose leads to sleep, and sleep produces dreams.
Here we find ourselves on the very verge of humanity, for the man
who sleeps is something more than a mere social being: the law
protects, but does not command him.
Here a very singular fact told me by Dom Duhaget, once prior of
the Chartreuse convent of Pierre Chatel, presents itself.
Dom Duhaget was a member of a very good family in Gascogne, and
had served with some distinction as a captain of infantry. He was
a knight of St Louis. I never knew any one, the conversation of
whom was more pleasant.
βThere was,β said he, βbefore I went to Pierre Chatel, a monk of a
very melancholy humor, whose character was very sombre, and who
was looked upon as a somnambulist.
βHe used often to leave his cell, and when he went astray, people
were forced to guide him back again. Many attempts had been made
to cure him, but in vain.
βOne evening I had not gone to bed at the usual hour, but was in
my office looking over several papers, when I saw this monk enter
in a perfect state of somnambulism.
βHis eyes were open but fixed, and he was clad in the tunic in
which he should have gone to bed, but he had a huge knife in his
hand.
βHe came at once to my bed, the position of which he was familiar
with, and after having felt my hand, struck three blows which
penetrated the mattrass on which I laid.
βAs he passed in front of me his brows were knit, and I saw an
expression of extreme gratification pervaded his face.
βThe light of two lamps on my desk made no impression, and he
returned as he had come, opening the doors which led to his cell,
and I soon became satisfied that he had quietly gone to bed.
βYou may,β said the Prior, βfancy my state after this terrible
apparition; I trembled at the danger I had escaped, and gave
thanks to Providence. My emotion, however, was so great that
during the balance of the night I could not sleep.
βOn the next day I sent for the somnambulist and asked him what he
had dreamed of during the preceding night.
βWhen I asked the question he became troubled. βFather,β said he,
βI had so strange a dream that it really annoys me; I fear almost
to tell you for I am sure the devil has had his hand in it.β βI
order you to tell me,β said I, βdreams are involuntary and this
may only be an illusion. Speak sincerely to me.β βFather,β said
he,β I had scarcely gone to sleep when I dreamed that you had
killed my mother, and when her bloody shadow appeared to demand
vengeance, I hurried into your cell, and as I thought stabbed you.
Not long after I arose, covered with perspiration, and thanked God
that I had not committed the crime I had meditated.β βIt has been
more nearly committed,β said I, with a kind voice, βthan you
think.β
βI then told him what had passed, and pointed out to him the blows
he had aimed at me.
βHe cast himself at my feet, and all in tears wept over the
involuntary crime he had thought to commit, and besought me to
inflict any penance I might think fit.
ββNo,β said I, βI will not punish you for an involuntary act.
Henceforth, though I excuse you from the service of the night, I
inform you that your cell will be locked on the outside and never
be opened except to permit you to attend to the first mass.ββ
If in this instance, from which a miracle only saved him, the
Prior had been killed, the monk would not have suffered, for he
would have committed a homicide not a murder.
TIME OF REST.
The general laws of the globe we inhabit have an influence on the
human race. The alternatives of day and night are felt with
certain varieties over the whole globe, but the result of all this
is the indication of a season of quiet and repose. Probably we
would not have been the same persons had we lived all our lives
without any change of day or night.
Be this as it may, when one has enjoyed for a certain length of
time a plentitude of life a time comes when he can enjoy nothing;
his impressibility gradually decreases, and the effects on each of
his senses are badly arranged. The organs are dull and the soul
becomes obtuse.
It is easy to see that we have had social man under consideration,
surrounded by all the attractions of civilization. The necessity
of this is peculiarly evident to all who are buried either in the
studio, travel, as soldiers, or in any other manner.
In repose our mother nature especially luxuriates. The man who
really reposes, enjoys a happiness which is as general as it is
indefinable; his arms sink by their own weight, his fibres
distend, his brain becomes refreshed, his senses become calm, and
his sensations obtuse. He wishes for nothing, he does not reflect,
a veil of gauze is spread before his eyes, and in a few moments he
will sink to sleep.
MEDITATION XVIII.
SLEEP.
THOUGH some men be organized that they may be said not to sleep,
yet the great necessity of the want of sleep is well defined as is
hunger or thirst. The advanced sentinels of the army used often to
sleep though they filled their eyes with snuff.
DEFINITION.
Sleep is a physical condition, during which man separates himself
from external objects by the inactivity of his senses, and has
only a mechanical life.
Sleep, like night, is preceded and followed by two twilights. The
one leads to inertion, the other to activity.
Let us seek to elucidate these phenomena.
When sleep begins, the organs of the senses fall almost into
inactivity. Taste first disappears, then the sight and smell. The
ear still is on the alert, and touch never slumbers. It ever warns
us of danger to which the body is liable.
Sleep is always preceded by a more or less voluptuous sensation.
The body yields to it with pleasure, being certain of a prompt
restoration. The soul gives up to it with confidence, hoping that
its means of fiction will he retempered.
From the fact of their not appreciating this sensation, savants of
high rank have compared sleep to death, which all living beings
resist as much as possible, and which even animals show a horror
of.
Like all pleasures, sleep becomes a passion. Persons have been
known to sleep away three-quarters of their life. Like all other
passions it then exerts the worst influences, producing idleness,
indolence, sloth and death.
The school of Salernum granted only seven hours to sleep without
distinction to sex or age. This maxim was too severe, for more
time is needed by children, and more should, from complaisance, be
granted to women. Though whenever more than ten hours is passed in
bed there is abuse.
In the early hours of crepuscular sleep, will yet exists. We can
rouse ourselves, and the eye has not yet lost all its power. Non
omnibus dormio, said Mecenes, and in this state more than one
husband has acquired a sad certainty. Some ideas yet originate but
are incoherent. There are doubtful lights, and see indistinct
forms flit around. This condition does not last long, for sleep
soon becomes absolute.
What does the soul do in the interim? It lives in itself, and like
a pilot in a calm, like a mirror at night, a lute that no one
touches, awakes new excitement.
Some psycologists, among others the count of Redern, say that the
soul always acts. The evidence is, that a man aroused from sleep
always preserves a memory of his dreams.
There is something in this observation, which deserves
verification.
This state of annihilation, however, is of brief duration, never
exceeding more than five or six hours: losses are gradually
repaired, an obscure sense of existence manifests itself, and the
sleeper passes into the empire of dreams.
MEDITATION XIX.
DREAMS.
Dreams are material impressions on the soul, without the
intervention of external objects.
These phenomena, so common in ordinary times, are yet little
known.
The fault resides with the savants who did not allow us a
sufficiently great number of instances. Time will however remedy
this, and the double nature of man will be better known.
In the present state of science, it must be taken for granted that
there exists a fluid, subtle as it is powerful, which transmits to
the brain the impressions received by the senses. This excitement
is the cause of ideas.
Absolute sleep is the deperdition or inertia of this fluid.
We must believe that the labors of digestion and assimulation do
not cease during sleep, but repair losses so that there is a time
when the individual having already all the necessities of action
is not excited by external objects.
Thus the nervous fluidβmovable from its nature, passes
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