The Physiology of Taste by Brillat Savarin (suggested reading .TXT) π
AUTHOR. Perhaps.
FRIEND. Women will read your book because they will see---
AUTHOR. My dear friend, I am old, I am attacked by a fit ofwisdom. Miserere mei.
FRIEND. Gourmands will read you because you do them justice, andassign them their suitable rank in society.
AUTHOR. Well, that is true. It is strange that they have so longbeen misunderstood; I look on the dear Gourmands with paternalaffection. They are so kind and their eyes are so bright.
FRIEND. Besides, did you not tell me such a book was needed inevery library.
AUTHOR. I did. It is the truth--and I would die sooner than denyit.
FRIEND: Ah! you are convinced! You will come home with me?
AUTHOR. Not so. If there be flowers in the author's path, thereare also thorns. The latter I leave to my heirs.
FRIEND. But then you disinherit your friends, acquaintances andcotemporaries. Dare you do so?
AUTHOR. My heirs! my heirs! I have heard that shades
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brain, through the nervous conduits. It insinuates itself into the
same places, and follows the old road. It produces the same, but
less intense effects.
I could easily ascertain the reason of this. When man is impressed
by an external object, sensation is sudden, precise, and
involuntary. The whole organ is in motion. When on the contrary,
the same impression is received in sleep, the posterior portion of
the nerves only is in motion, and the sensation is in consequence,
less distinct and positive. To make ourselves more easily
understood, we will say that when the man is awake, the whole
system is impressed, while in sleep, only that portion near the
brain is affected.
We know, however, that in voluptuous dreams, nature is almost as
much gratified as by our waking sensations; there is, however,
this difference in the organs, for each sex has all the elements
of gratification.
When the nervous fluid is taken to our brain, it is always
collected in vats, so to say, intended for the use of one of our
senses, and for that reason, a certain series of ideas, preferable
to others, are aroused. Thus we see when the optic nerve is
excited, and hear when those of the ear are moved. Let us here
remark that taste and smell are rarely experienced in dreams. We
dream of flowers, but not of their perfume; we see a magnificently
arranged table, but have no perception of the flavor of the
dishes.
This is a subject of enquiry worthy of the most distinguished
science. We mean, to ascertain why certain senses are lost in
sleep, while others preserve almost their full activity. No
physiologist has ever taken care of this matter.
Let us remark that the influences we are subject to when we sleep,
are internal. Thus, sensual ideas are nothing after the anguish we
suffer at a dream of the death of a loved child. At such moments
we awake to find ourselves weeping bitterly.
NATURE OF DREAMS.
Whimsical as some of the ideas which visit us in dreams may be, we
will on examination find they are either recollections, or
combinations of memory. I am inclined to say that dreams are the
memory of sensations.
Their strangeness exists only in the oddity of association which
rejects all idea of law and of chronology, of propriety and time.
No one, however, ever dreamed of any thing absolutely unknown to
him.
No one will be amazed at the strangeness of our dreams, when we
remember, that, when awake, our senses are on the alert, and
respectively rectify each other. When a man sleeps, however, every
sensation is left to his own resources.
I am inclined to compare these two conditions of the brain, to a
piano at which some great musician sits, and who as he throws his
fingers over the keys recalls some melody which he might harmonize
if he use all his power. This comparison may be extended yet
further, when we remember that reflection is to ideas, what harmony
is to sounds; that certain ideas contain others, as a principle
sound contains the others which follow it, etc. etc.
SYSTEM OF DR. GALL.
Having followed thus far a subject which is not without interest,
I have come to the confines of the system of Dr. Gall who sustains
the multiformity of the organs of the brain.
I cannot go farther, nor pass the limits I have imposed on myself:
yet from the love of science, to which it may be seen I am no
stranger, I cannot refrain from making known two observations I
made with care, and which are the more important, as many persons
will be able to verify them.
FIRST OBSERVATION.
About 1790 there was in a little village called Gevrin, in the
arrondissement of Belley a very shrewd tradesman named Landot, who
had amassed a very pretty fortune.
All at once he was stricken with paralysis. The Doctors came to
his assistance, and preserved his life, not however without loss,
for all of his faculties especially memory was gone. He however
got on well enough, resumed his appetite and was able to attend to
his business.
When seen to be in this state, all those with whom he ever had
dealings, thought the time for his revenge was come, and under the
pretext of amusing him, offered all kinds of bargains, exchanges,
etc. They found themselves mistaken, and had to relinquish their
hopes.
The old man had lost none of his commercial faculties. Though he
forgot his own name and those of his servants, he was always
familiar with the price-current, and knew the exact value of every
acre and vineyard in the vicinity.
In this respect his judgment had be en uninjured, and the
consequence was, that many of the assailants were taken in their
own snares.
SECOND OBSERVATION.
At Belley, there was a M. Chirol, who had served for a long time
in the gardes du corps of Louis XV. and XVI.
He had just sense enough for his profession, but he was
passionately fond of all kinds of games, playing lβhombre, piquet,
whist, and any new game that from time to time might be
introduced.
M. Chirol also became apoplectic and fell into a state of almost
absolute insensibility. Two things however were spared, his
faculty for digestion, and his passion for play.
He used to go every day to a house he had been used to frequent,
sat in a corner and seemed to pay no attention to any thing that
passed around him.
When the time came to arrange the card parties, they used to
invite him to take a hand. Then it became evident that the malady
which had prostrated the majority of his faculties, had not
affected his play. Not long before he died, M. Chirol gave a
striking proof that this faculty was uninjured.
There came to Belley, a banker from Paris, the name of whom I
think was Delins. He had letters of introduction, he was a
Parisian, and that was enough in a small city to induce all to
seek to make his time pass agreeably as possible.
Delins was a gourmand, and was fond of play. In one point of view
he was easily satisfied, for they used to keep him, every day,
five or six hours at the table. It was difficult, however, to
amuse his second faculty. He was fond of piquet and used to talk
of six francs a fiche, far heavier play than we indulged in.
To overcome this obstacle, a company was formed in which each one
risked something. Some said that the people of Paris knew more
than we; and others that all Parisians were inclined to boasting.
The company was however formed, and the game was assigned to M.
Chirol.
When the Parisian banker saw the long pale face, and limping form
opposed to him, he fancied at first, that he was the butt of joke:
when, however, he saw the artistic manner with which the spectre
handled the cards, he began to think he had an adversary worthy of
him, for once.
He was not slow in being convinced that the faculty yet existed,
for not only in that, but in many other games was Delins so beaten
that he had to pay more than six hundred francs to the company,
which was carefully divided.
RESULT.
The consequences of these two observations are easily deduced. It
seems clear that in each case, the blow which deranged the brain,
had spared for a long time, that portion of the organ employed in
commerce and in gaming. It had resisted it beyond doubt, because
exercise had given it great power, and because deeply worked
impressions hatf exerted great influence on it.
AGE.
Age has great influence on the nature of dreams.
In infancy we dream of games, gardens, flowers, and other smiling
objects; at a later date, we dream of pleasure, love, battles, and
marriages; later still we dream of princely favors, of business,
trouble and long departed pleasures.
PHENOMENA OF DREAMS.
Certain strange phenomena accompany sleep and dreams. Their study
may perhaps account for anthropomania, and for this reason I
record here, three observations, selected from a great many made
by myself during the silence of night.
FIRST OBSERVATION.
I dreamed one night, that I had discovered a means to get rid of
the laws of gravitation, so that it became as easy to ascend as
descend, and that I could do either as I pleased.
This estate seemed delicious to me; perhaps many persons may have
had similar dreams. One curious thing however, occurs to me, which
I remember, I explained very distinctly to myself the means which
led me to such a result, and they seemed so simple, that I was
surprised I had not discovered it sooner.
As I awoke, the whole explanation escaped my mind, but the
conclusion remained; since then, I will ever be persuaded of the
truth of this observation.
SECOND OBSERVATION.
A few months ago while asleep I experienced a sensation of great
gratification. It consisted in a kind of delicious tremor of all
the organs of which my body was composed, a violet flame played
over my brow.
Lambere flamma comas, et circum temporo pasci.
I think this physical state did not last more than twenty seconds,
and I awoke with a sensation of something of terror mingled with
surprise.
This sensation I can yet remember very distinctly, and from
various observations have deduced the conclusion that the limits
of pleasure are not, as yet, either known or defined, and that we
do not know how far the body may be beatified. I trust that in the
course of a few centuries, physiology will explain these
sensations and recall them at will, as sleep is produced by opium,
and that posterity will be rewarded by them for the atrocious
agony they often suffer from when sleeping.
The proposition I have announced, to a degree is sustained by
analogy, for I have already remarked that the power of harmony
which procures us such acute enjoyments, was totally unknown to
the Romans. This discovery is only about five hundred years old.
THIRD OBSERVATION.
In the year VIII (1800,) I went to bed as usual and woke up about
one, as I was in the habit of doing. I found myself in a strange
state of cerebral excitement, my preception was keen, my thoughts
profound; the sphere of my intelligence seemed increased, I sat up
and my eyes were affected with a pale, vaporous, uncertain light,
which, however, did, not enable me to distinguish objects
accurately.
Did I only consult the crowd of ideas which succeeded so rapidly,
I might have fancied that this state lasted many hours; I am
satisfied, however, that it did not last more than half an hour,
an external accident, unconnected with volition, however, aroused
me from it, and I was recalled to the things of earth.
When the luminous apparition disappeared, I became aware of a
sense of dryness, and, in fact, regained my waking faculties. As I
was now wide awake, my memory retained a portion of the ideas
(indistinctly) which crossed my mind.
The first ideas had time as their subject. It seemed to me that
the past, present and future, became identical, were narrowed down
to a point, so that it was as easy to look forward into the
future, as back into the past. This is all I remember of this
first intuition, which was almost effaced by subsequent ones.
Attention was then directed to the senses,
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