The Physiology of Taste by Brillat Savarin (suggested reading .TXT) π
AUTHOR. Perhaps.
FRIEND. Women will read your book because they will see---
AUTHOR. My dear friend, I am old, I am attacked by a fit ofwisdom. Miserere mei.
FRIEND. Gourmands will read you because you do them justice, andassign them their suitable rank in society.
AUTHOR. Well, that is true. It is strange that they have so longbeen misunderstood; I look on the dear Gourmands with paternalaffection. They are so kind and their eyes are so bright.
FRIEND. Besides, did you not tell me such a book was needed inevery library.
AUTHOR. I did. It is the truth--and I would die sooner than denyit.
FRIEND: Ah! you are convinced! You will come home with me?
AUTHOR. Not so. If there be flowers in the author's path, thereare also thorns. The latter I leave to my heirs.
FRIEND. But then you disinherit your friends, acquaintances andcotemporaries. Dare you do so?
AUTHOR. My heirs! my heirs! I have heard that shades
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soon as obesity causes them to deviate from the vertical line,
rests on the envelopes which compose the skin of the stomach. The
latter being susceptible of almost infinite distention, would be
unable to replace themselves, when this effort diminishes, if they
did not have a mechanical art, which, resting on the dorsal
column, becomes an antagonist, and restores equilibrium. This belt
has therefore the effect of preventing the intestines from
yielding to their actual weight, and gives a power to contract
when pressure is diminished. It should never be laid aside, or the
benefit it exerts in the day will be destroyed in the night. It is
not, however, in the least troublesome, and one soon becomes used
to it.
The belt also shows when we have eaten enough; and it should be
made with great care, and so contrived as to diminish as the
embonpoint decreases.
One is not forced to wear it all life long, and it may be laid
aside when the inconvenience is sufficiently reduced. A suitable
diet however, should be maintained. I have not worn it for six
years.
QUINQUINA.
One substance I think decidedly antiobesic. Many observations have
induced me to think so, yet I leave the matter in doubt, and
submit it to physicians.
This is quinquina.
Ten or twelve persons that I know, have had long intermittent
fevers; some were cured by old womenβs remedies, powders, etc.
Others by the continued use of quinquina, which is always
effective.
All those persons of the same category, gradually regained their
obesity. Those of the second, lost their embonpoint, a
circumstance which leaves me to think the quinquina which produced
the last result had the effect I speak of.
Rational theory is not opposed to this deduction, for quinquina,
exciting all the vital powers, may give the circulation an impetus
which troubles all, and dissipates, the gas destined to become
fat. It is also shown that quinquina contains a portion of tannin
which is powerful enough to close the cells which contain grease.
It is possible that these two effects sustain each other.
These two ideas, the truth of which any one may understand, induce
me to recommend quinquina to all those who wish to get rid of
troublesome embonpoint. Thus dummodo annuerit in omni medicationis
genere doctissimi Facultatis professores. I think that after the
first month of any regimen, the person who wishes to get rid of
fat, should take every day before breakfast, a glass of white
wine, in which was placed a spoonful of coffee and red quinquina.
Such are the means I suggest to overcome a very troublesome
affection. I have accommodated them to human weakness and to our
manners.
In this respect the experimental truth is relied on, which teaches
that in proportion as a regime is vigorous, it is dangerous, for
he who does not follow it literally, does not follow it all.
Great efforts are rare, and if one wishes to be followed, men must
be offered things vacile, if not agreeable.
MEDITATION XXIII.
THINNESS.
DEFINITION.
THINNESS is the state of that individual, the muscular frame of
whom is not filled up by strength, and who exhibits all angles of
the long scaffolding.
VARIETIES.
There are two kinds of thinness; the first is the result of the
primitive disposition of the body, and is accompanied by health,
and a full use of the organic functions of the body. The second is
caused by the fact that some of the organs are more defective than
others, and give the individual an unhappy and miserable
appearance. I once knew young woman of moderate stature who only
weighed sixty-five pounds.
EFFECTS OF THINNESS.
Thinness is a matter of no great trouble to men. They have no less
strength, and are far more active. The father of the young woman I
spoke of, though, very thin, could seize a chair by his teeth and
throw it over his head.
It is, however, a terrible misfortune to women, to whom beauty is
more important than life, and the beauty of whom consists in the
roundness and graceful contour of their forms. The most careful
toilette, the most, sublime needle-work, cannot hide certain
deficiencies. It has been said that whenever a pin is taken from a
thin woman, beautiful as she may be, she loses some charm.
The thin have, therefore, no remedy, except from the interference
of the faculty. The regimen must be so long, that the cure must be
slow.
Women, however, who are thin, and who have a good stomach, are
found to be as susceptible of fat as chickens. A little time,
only, is necessary, for the stomach of chickens is comparatively
smaller, and they cannot be submitted to as regular a diet as
chickens are.
This is the most gentle comparison which suggested itself to me. I
needed one, and ladies will excuse me for the reason for which I
wrote this chapter.
NATURAL PREDESTINATION.
Nature varies its works, and has remedies for thinness, as it has
for obesity.
Persons intended to be thin are long drawn out. They have long
hands and feet, legs thin, and the os coxigis retroceding. Their
sides are strongly marked, their noses prominent, large mouths,
sharp chins and brown hair.
This is the general type, the individual elements may sometimes
vary; this however happens rarely.
Thin people sometimetimes eat a great deal. All I ever even talked
with, confess that they digest badly. That is the reason they
remain thin.
They are of every class and temperament. Some have nothing salient
either in feature or in form. Their eyes are inexpressive, their
lips pale, and every feature denotes a want of energy, weakness,
and something like suffering. One might almost say they seemed to
be incomplete, and that the torch of their lives had not been well
lighted.
FATTENING REGIMEN.
All thin women wish to be fat; this is a wish we have heard
expressed a thousand times. To render, then, this last homage to
the powerful sex, we seek to replace by folds of silk and cotton,
exposed in fashion shops, to the great scandal of the severe, who
turn aside, and look away from them, as they would from chimeras,
more carefully than if the reality presented themselves to their
eyes.
The whole secret of embonpoint consists in a suitable diet. One
need only eat and select suitable food.
With this regimen, our disposition to sleep is almost unimportant.
If you do not take exercise, you will be exposed to fatness. If
you do, you will yet grow fat.
If you sleep much, you will grow fat, if you sleep little, your
digestion will increase, and you will eat more.
We have then only to speak of the manner they who wish to grow fat
should live. This will not be difficult, according to the many
directions we have laid down.
To resolve this problem, we must offer to the stomach food which
occupies, but does not fatigue it, and displays to the assimilant
power, things they can turn into fat.
Let us seek to trace out the daily diet of a sylph, or a sylph
disposed to materialize itself.
GENERAL RULE. Much fresh bread will be eaten during the day, and
particular care will be taken not to throw away the crumbs.
Before eight in the morning, soup au pain or aux pates will be
taken, and afterwards a cup of good chocolate.
At eleven oβclock, breakfast on fresh broiled eggs, petit pates
cotelettes, and what you please; have eggs, coffee will do no
harm.
Dinner hour should be so arranged that one should have thoroughly
digested before the time comes to sit down at the table. The
eating of one meal before another is digested, is an abuse.
After dinner there should be some exercise; men as much as they
can; women should go into the Tuilleries, or as they say in
America, go shopping. We are satisfied that the little gossip and
conversation they maintain is very healthful.
At times, all should take as much soup, potage, fish, etc., and
also meat cooked with rice and macaronies, pastry, creams, etc.
At dessert such persons should eat Savoy biscuits, and other
things made up of eggs, fecula, and sugar.
This regimen, though apparently circumscribed, is yet susceptible
of great variety: it admits the whole animal kingdom, and great
care is necessarily taken in the seasoning and preparation of the
food presented. The object of this is to prevent disgust, which
prevents any amelioration.
Beer should be preferredβif not beer, wines from Bourdeaux or
from the south of France.
One should avoid all acids, except salads. As much sugar as
possible should be put on fruits and all should avoid cold baths.
One should seek as long as possible, to breathe the pure country
air, eat many grapes when they are in season, and never go to the
ball for the mere pleasure of dancing.
Ordinarily one should go to bed about eleven, P. M., and never,
under any circumstances, sit up more than an hour later.
Following this regime resolutely, all the distractions of nature
will soon be repaired. Health and beauty will both be advanced,
and accents of gratitude will ring in the ears of the professor.
Sheep are fattened, as are oxen, lobsters and oysters. Hence, I
deduce the general maxim; viz: βHe that eats may be made fat,
provided that the food be chosen correctly, and according to the
physiology of the animal to be fattened.β
MEDITATION XXIV.
FASTING.
DEFINITION.
FASTING is a moral abstinence from food, from some religious or
moral influence.
Though contrary to our tastes and habits, it is yet of the
greatest antiquity.
ORIGIN.
Authors explain the matter thus:
In individual troubles, when a father, mother, or beloved child
have died, all the household is in mourning. The body is washed,
perfumed, enbalmed, and buried as it should beβnone then think of
eating, but all fast.
In public calamites, when a general drought appears, and cruel
wars, or contagious maladies come, we humble ourselves before the
power that sent them, and mortify ourselves by abstinence.
Misfortune ceases. We become satisfied that the reason was that we
fasted, and we continue to have reference to such conjectures.
Thus it is, men afflicted with public calamities or private ones,
always yield to sadness, fail to take food, and in the end, make a
voluntary act, a religious one.
They fancied they should macerate their body when their soul was
oppressed, that they could excite the pity of the gods. This idea
seized on all nations and filled them with the idea of mourning,
prayers, sacrifice, abstinence, mortification, etc.
Christ came and sanctified fasting. All Christian sects since then
have adopted fasting more or less, as an obligation.
HOW PEOPLE USED TO FAST.
The practice of fasting, I am sorry to say, has become very rare;
and whether for the education of the wicked, or for their
conversion, I am glad to tell how we fast now in the XVIII.
century.
Ordinarily we breakfast before nine oβclock, on bread, cheese,
fruit and cold meats.
Between one and two P. M., we take soup or pot au feu according to
our positions.
About four, there is a little lunch kept up for the benefit of
those people who belong to other ages, and for children.
About eight there was a regular supper, with entrees roti
entremets dessert: all shared in it, and then went to bed.
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