Seasoning of Wood by Joseph Bernard Wagner (bill gates best books txt) 📕

Commercial success in drying therefore requires that the substance be exposed to the air in the most efficient manner; that the temperature of the air be as high as the substance will stand without injury, and that the air change or movement be as rapid as is consistent with economical installation and operation. Conditions of success therefore require the observance of the following points, which embody the basic principles of the process: (1) The timber should be heated through before drying begins. (2) The air should be very humid at the beginning of the drying process, and be made drier only gradually. (3) The temperature of the lumber must be maintained uniformly throughout the entire pile. (4) Control of the drying process at any given temperature must be secured by controlling the relative humidity, not by decreasing the circulation. (5) In general, high temperatures permit more rapid drying than do lower temperatures. The higher the temperature of the lumber, the more efficient is the kiln. It is believed that temperatures as high as the boiling point are not injurious to most woods, providing all other fundamentally important features are taken care of. Some species, however, are not able to stand as high temperatures as others, and (6) the degree of dryness attained, where strength is the prime requisite, should not exceed that at which the wood is to be used.

The rapidity with which water may be evaporated, that is, the rate of drying, depends on the size and shape of the piece and on the structure of the wood. Thin stock can be dried much faster than thick, under the same conditions of temperature, circulation, and humidity. Pine can be dried, as a general thing, in about one third of the time that would be required for oak of the same thickness, although the former contains the more water of the two. Quarter-sawn oak usually requires half again as long as plain oak. Mahogany requires about the same time as plain oak; ash dries in a little less time, and maple, according to the purpose for which it is intended, may be dried in one fifth the time needed for oak, or may require a slightly longer treatment. For birch, the time required is from one half to two thirds, and for poplar and basswood, from, one fifth to one third that required for oak.

All kinds and thicknesses of lumber cannot be dried at the same time in the same kiln. It is manifest that green and air-dried lumber, dense and porous lumber, all require different treatment. For instance, Southern yellow pine when cut green from the log will stand a very high temperature, say 200 degrees Fahrenheit, and in fact this high temperature is necessary together with a rapid circulation of air in order to neutralize the acidity of the pitch which causes the wood to blue and discolor. This lumber requires to be heated up immediately and to be kept hot throughout the length of the kiln. Hence the kiln must not be of such length as to allow of the air being too much cooled before escaping.

While it is true that a higher temperature can be carried in the kiln for drying pine and similar woods, this does not altogether account for the great difference in drying time, as experience has taught us that even when both woods are dried in the same kiln, under the same conditions, pine will still dry much faster, proving thereby that the structure of the wood itself affects drying.

The aim of all kiln designers should be to dry in the shortest possible time, without injury to the material. Experience has demonstrated that high temperatures are very effective in evaporating water, regardless of the degree of humidity, but great care must be exercised in using extreme temperatures that the material to be dried is not damaged by checking, case-hardening, or hollow-horning.

The temperature used should depend upon the species and condition of the material when entering the kiln. In general, it is advantageous to have as high a temperature as possible, both for economy of operation and speed of drying, but the physical properties of the wood will govern this.

Many species cannot be dried satisfactorily at high temperatures on account of their peculiar behavior. This is particularly so with green lumber.

Air-dried wood will stand a relatively higher temperature, as a rule, than wet or green wood. In drying green wood direct from the saw, it is usually best to start with a comparatively low temperature, and not raise the temperature until the wood is nearly dry. For example, green maple containing about 60 per cent of its dry weight in water should be started at about 120 degrees Fahrenheit and when it reaches a dryness of 25 per cent, the temperature may be raised gradually up to 190 degrees.

It is exceedingly important that the material be practically at the same temperature throughout if perfect drying is to be secured. It should be the same temperature in the center of a pile or car as on the outside, and the same in the center of each individual piece of wood as on its surface. This is the effect obtained by natural air-drying. The outside atmosphere and breezes (natural air circulation) are so ample that the heat extracted for drying does not appreciably change the temperature.

When once the wood has been raised to a high temperature through and through and especially when the surface has been rendered most permeable to moisture, drying may proceed as rapidly as it can be forced by artificial circulation, provided the heat lost from the wood through vaporization is constantly replaced by the heat of the kiln.

It is evident that to secure an even temperature, a free circulation of air must be brought in contact with the wood. It is also evident that in addition to heat and a circulation of air, the air must be charged with a certain amount of moisture to prevent surface drying or case-hardening.

There are some twenty-five different makes of dry kilns on the market, which fulfill to a varying degree the fundamental requirements. Probably none of them succeed perfectly in fulfilling all.

It is well to have the temperature of a dry kiln controlled by a thermostat which actuates the valve on the main steam supply pipe. It is doubly important to maintain a uniform temperature and avoid fluctuations in the dry kiln, since a change in temperature will greatly alter the relative humidity.

In artificial drying, temperatures of from 150 to 180 degrees Fahrenheit are usually employed. Pine, spruce, cypress, cedar, etc., are dried fresh from the saw, allowing four days for 1-inch stuff. Hardwoods, especially oak, ash, maple, birch, sycamore, etc., are usually air-seasoned for three to six months to allow the first shrinkage to take place more gradually, and are then exposed to the above temperatures in the kiln for about six to ten days for 1-inch stuff, other dimensions in proportion.

Freshly cut poplar and cottonwood are often dried direct from the saw in a kiln. By employing lower temperatures, 100 to 120 degrees Fahrenheit, green oak, ash, etc., can be seasoned in dry kilns without much injury to the material.

Steaming and sweating the wood is sometimes resorted to in order to prevent checking and case-hardening, but not, as has been frequently asserted, to enable the material to dry.

Air circulation is of the utmost importance, since no drying whatever can take place when it is lacking. The evaporation of moisture requires heat and this must be supplied by the circulating air. Moreover, the moisture laden air must be constantly removed and fresh, drier air substituted. Probably this is the factor which gives more trouble in commercial operations than anything else, and the one which causes the greatest number of failures.

It is necessary that the air circulate through every part of the kiln and that the moving air come in contact with every portion of the material to be dried. In fact, the humidity is dependent upon the circulation. If the air stagnates in any portion of the pile, then the temperature will drop and the humidity rise to a condition of saturation. Drying will not take place at this portion of the pile and the material is apt to mould and rot.

The method of piling the material on trucks or in the kiln, is therefore, of extreme importance. Various methods are in use. Ordinary flat piling is probably the poorest. Flat piling with open chimney spaces in the piles is better. But neither method is suitable for a kiln in which the circulation is mainly vertical.

Edge piling with stickers running vertically is in use in kilns when the heating coils are beneath. This is much better.

Air being cooled as it comes in contact with a pile of material, becomes denser, and consequently tends to sink. Unless the material to be dried is so arranged that the air can pass gradually downward through the pile as it cools, poor circulation is apt to result.

In edge-piled lumber, with the heating system beneath the piles, the natural tendency of the cooled air to descend is opposed by the hot air beneath which tends to rise. An indeterminate condition is thus brought about, resulting in non-uniform drying. It has been found that air will rise through some layers and descend through others.

Humidity is of prime importance because the rate of drying and prevention of checking and case-hardening are largely dependent thereon. It is generally true that the surface of the wood should not dry more rapidly than the moisture transfuses from the center of the piece to its surface, otherwise disaster will result. As a sufficient amount of moisture is removed from the wood to maintain the desired humidity, it is not good economy to generate moisture in an outside apparatus and force it into a kiln, unless the moisture in the wood is not sufficient for this purpose; in that case provision should be made for adding any additional moisture that may be required.

The rate of evaporation may best be controlled by controlling the amount of vapor present in the air (relative humidity); it should not be controlled by reducing the air circulation, since a large circulation is needed at all times to supply the necessary heat.

The humidity should be graded from 100 per cent at the receiving end of the kiln, to whatever humidity corresponds with the desired degree of dryness at the delivery end.

The kiln should be so designed that the proper degree may be maintained at its every section.

A fresh piece of sapwood will lose weight in boiling water and can also be dried to quite an extent in steam. This proves conclusively that a high degree of humidity does not have the detrimental effect on drying that is commonly attributed to it. In fact, a proper degree of humidity, especially in the loading or receiving end of a kiln, is just as necessary to good results in drying as getting the proper temperature.

Experiments have demonstrated also that injury to stock in the way of checking, warping, and hollow-horning always develops immediately after the stock is taken into the kiln, and is due to the degree of humidity being too low. The receiving end of the kiln should always be kept moist, where the stock has not been steamed before being put into the kiln. The reason for this is simple enough. When the air is too dry it tends to dry the outside of the material first—which is termed "case-hardening"—and in so doing shrinks and closes up the pores of the wood. As the stock is moved down the kiln, it absorbs a continually increasing amount of heat, which tends to drive off the moisture still present in the center of the stock. The pores