Across Asia on a Bicycle by William Lewis Sachtleben (ebook reader .TXT) 📕

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st"). When a bad piece of road or a steep ascent forced us to dismount he would bring his horse to a walk, roll a cigarette, and draw invidious comparisons between our steeds. His tone, however, changed when we reached a decline or long stretch of reasonably good road. Then he would cut across country to head us off, or shout after us at the top of his voice, "Yavash-yavash" ("Slowly, slowly"). On the whole we found them good-natured and companionable fellows, notwithstanding their interest in baksheesh which we were compelled at last, in self-defense, to fix at one piaster an hour. We frequently shared with them our frugal, and even scanty meals; and in turn they assisted us in our purchases and arrangements for lodgings, for their word, we found, was with the common people an almost unwritten law. Then, too, they were of great assistance in crossing streams where the depth would have necessitated the stripping of garments; although their fiery little steeds sometimes objected to having an extra rid

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The Project Gutenberg EBook of Across Asia on a Bicycle by Thomas Gaskell Allen and William Lewis Sachtleben

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Title: Across Asia on a Bicycle

Author: Thomas Gaskell Allen and William Lewis Sachtleben

Release Date: January 29, 2010 [Ebook #31111]

Language: English

***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ACROSS ASIA ON A BICYCLE***

ACROSS ASIA ON A BICYCLE

THROUGH WESTERN CHINA IN LIGHT MARCHING ORDER.

ACROSS ASIA ON A
BICYCLE

THE JOURNEY OF TWO AMERICAN STUDENTS
FROM CONSTANTINOPLE TO PEKING

BY
THOMAS GASKELL ALLEN, Jr.
AND
WILLIAM LEWIS SACHTLEBEN

NEW YORK
THE CENTURY CO.
1894

THE DEVINNE PRESS.

TO

THOSE AT HOME

WHOSE THOUGHTS AND
WISHES WERE EVER
WITH US IN OUR
WANDERINGS

[pg xi] PREFACE

This volume is made up of a series of sketches describing the most interesting part of a bicycle journey around the world,—our ride across Asia. We were actuated by no desire to make a “record” in bicycle travel, although we covered 15,044 miles on the wheel, the longest continuous land journey ever made around the world.

The day after we were graduated at Washington University, St. Louis, Mo., we left for New York. Thence we sailed for Liverpool on June 23, 1890. Just three years afterward, lacking twenty days, we rolled into New York on our wheels, having “put a girdle round the earth.”

Our bicycling experience began at Liverpool. After following many of the beaten lines of travel in the British Isles we arrived in London, where we formed our plans for traveling across Europe, Asia, and America. The most dangerous regions to be traversed in such a journey, we were told, were western China, the Desert of Gobi, and central China. Never since the days of Marco Polo had a European traveler succeeded in crossing the Chinese empire from the west to Peking.

Crossing the Channel, we rode through Normandy to Paris, across the lowlands of western France to Bordeaux, eastward over the Lesser Alps to Marseilles, and along the Riviera into Italy. After visiting every important city on the peninsula, we left Italy at Brindisi on the last day of 1890 for Corfu, in Greece. Thence we traveled to Patras, [pg xii]proceeding along the Corinthian Gulf to Athens, where we passed the winter. We went to Constantinople by vessel in the spring, crossed the Bosporus in April, and began the long journey described in the following pages. When we had finally completed our travels in the Flowery Kingdom, we sailed from Shanghai for Japan. Thence we voyaged to San Francisco, where we arrived on Christmas night, 1892. Three weeks later we resumed our bicycles and wheeled by way of Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas to New York.

During all of this journey we never employed the services of guides or interpreters. We were compelled, therefore, to learn a little of the language of every country through which we passed. Our independence in this regard increased, perhaps, the hardships of the journey, but certainly contributed much toward the object we sought—a close acquaintance with strange peoples.

During our travels we took more than two thousand five hundred photographs, selections from which are reproduced in the illustrations of this volume.

CONTENTS PAGE I. Beyond the Bosporus 1 II. The Ascent of Mount Ararat 43 III. Through Persia to Samarkand 83 IV. The Journey from Samarkand to Kuldja 115 V. Over the Gobi Desert and through the Western Gate of the Great Wall 149 VI. An Interview with the Prime Minister of China 207

List of Illustrations THROUGH WESTERN CHINA IN LIGHT MARCHING ORDER. [Frontispiece] BICYCLE ROUTE OF Messrs. Allen & Sachtleben ACROSS ASIA. [p. 4 and 5] THE DONKEY BOYS INSPECT THE 'DEVIL'S CARRIAGE.' [p. 6] HELPING A TURK WHOSE HORSES RAN AWAY AT SIGHT OF OUR BICYCLES. [p. 8] AN ANGORA SHEPHERD. [p. 9] 1, THE ENGLISH CONSUL AT ANGORA FEEDING HIS PETS; 2, PASSING A CARAVAN OF CAMELS; 3, PLOWING IN ASIA MINOR. [p. 11] A CONTRAST. [p. 12] A TURKISH FLOUR-MILL. [p. 13] MILL IN ASIA MINOR. [p. 15] GIPSIES OF ASIA MINOR. [p. 16] SCENE AT A GREEK INN. [p. 19] EATING KAISERICHEN (EKMEK) OR BREAD. [p. 20] GRINDING WHEAT. [p. 21] A TURKISH (HAMAAL) OR CARRIER. [p. 22] TURKISH WOMEN GOING TO PRAYERS IN KAISARIEH. [p. 23] THE 'FLIRTING TOWER' IN SIVAS. [p. 25] HOUSE OF THE AMERICAN CONSUL IN SIVAS. [p. 26] ARABS CONVERSING WITH A TURK. [p. 29] A KADI EXPOUNDING THE KORAN. [p. 30] EVENING HALT IN A VILLAGE. [p. 32] PRIMITIVE WEAVING. [p. 33] A FERRY IN ASIA MINOR. [p. 38] A VILLAGE SCENE. [p. 40] [Rural scene without caption.] [p. 42] WHERE THE 'ZAPTIEHS' WERE NOT A NUISANCE. [p. 50] READY FOR THE START. [p. 53] PARLEYING WITH THE KURDISH PARTY AT THE SPRING. [p. 56] THE KURDISH ENCAMPMENT. [p. 59] OUR GUARDS SIT DOWN TO DISCUSS THE SITUATION. [p. 65] HELPING THE DONKEYS OVER A SNOW-FIELD. [p. 67] LITTLE ARARAT COMES INTO VIEW. [p. 69] THE WALL INCLOSURE FOR OUR BIVOUAC AT ELEVEN THOUSAND FEET. [p. 72] NEARING THE HEAD OF THE GREAT CHASM. [p. 74] ON THE SUMMIT OF MOUNT ARARAT—FIRING THE FOURTH OF JULY SALUTE. [p. 78] HARVEST SCENE NEAR KHOI. [p. 84]

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