How I Found Livingstone by Henry M. Stanley (trending books to read .txt) đź“•
The same mode of commerce obtains here as in all Mohammedan countries--nay, the mode was in vogue long before Moses was born. The Arab never changes. He brought the custom of his forefathers with him when he came to live on this island. He is as much of an Arab here as at Muscat or Bagdad; wherever he goes to live he carries with him his harem, his religion, his long robe, his shirt, his slippers, and his dagger. If he penetrates Africa, not all the ridicule of the negroes can make him change his modes of life. Yet the land has not become Oriental; the Arab has not
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determined on war unless the Arabs aided him in the warfare he
was about to wage against old Mkasiwa, sultan of the Wanyamwezi
of Unyanyembe.
“This is the status of affairs,” said Khamis bin Abdullah.
“Mirambo says that for years he has been engaged in war against
the neighbouring Washensi and has come out of it victorious; he
says this is a great year with him; that he is going to fight
the Arabs, and the Wanyamwezi of Unyanyembe, and that he shall
not stop until every Arab is driven from Unyanyembe, and he rules
over this country in place of Mkasiwa. Children of Oman, shall
it be so? Speak, Salim, son of Sayf, shall we go to meet this
Mshensi (pagan) or shall we return to our island?”
A murmur of approbation followed the speech of Khamis bin Abdullah,
the majority of those present being young men eager to punish the
audacious Mirambo. Salim, the son of Sayf, an old patriarch, slow
of speech, tried to appease the passions of the young men, scions
of the aristocracy of Muscat and Muttrah, and Bedaweens of the
Desert, but Khamis’s bold words had made too deep an impression on
their minds.
Soud, the handsome Arab whom I have noticed already as the son of
Sayd the son of Majid, spoke: “My father used to tell me that he
remembered the days when the Arabs could go through the country
from Bagamoyo to Ujiji, and from Kilwa to Lunda, and from Usenga
to Uganda armed with canes. Those days are gone by. We have stood
the insolence of the Wagogo long enough. Swaruru of Usui just
takes from us whatever he wants; and now, here is Mirambo, who
says, after taking more than five bales of cloth as tribute from
one man, that no Arab caravan shall go to Ujiji, but over his body.
Are we prepared to give up the ivory of Ujiji, of Urundi, of
Karagwah, of Uganda, because of this one man? I say war—war
until we have got his beard under our feet—war until the whole of
Uyoweh and Wilyankuru is destroyed—war until we can again travel
through any part of the country with only our walking canes in
our hands!”
The universal assent that followed Send’s speech proved beyond
a doubt that we were about to have a war. I thought of
Livingstone. What if he were marching to Unyanyembe directly
into the war country?
Having found from the Arabs that they intended to finish the war
quickly—at most within fifteen days, as Uyoweh was only four
marches distant—I volunteered to accompany them, take my loaded
caravan with me as far as Mfuto, and there leave it in charge of
a few guards, and with the rest march on with the Arab army. And
my hope was, that it might be possible, after the defeat of Mirambo,
and his forest banditti—the RugaRuga—to take my Expedition direct
to Ujiji by the road now closed. The Arabs were sanguine of
victory, and I partook of their enthusiasm.
The council of war broke up. A great dishful of rice and curry,
in which almonds, citron, raisins, and currants were plentifully
mixed, was brought in, and it was wonderful how soon we forgot our
warlike fervor after our attention had been drawn to this royal
dish. I, of course, not being a Mohammedan, had a dish of my own,
of a similar composition, strengthened by platters containing
roast chicken, and kabobs, crullers, cakes, sweetbread, fruit,
glasses of sherbet and lemonade, dishes of gum-drops and Muscat
sweetmeats, dry raisins, prunes, and nuts. Certainly Khamis bin
Abdullah proved to me that if he had a warlike soul in him, he
could also attend to the cultivated tastes acquired under the shade
of the mangoes on his father’s estates in Zanzibar—the island.
After gorging ourselves on these uncommon dainties some of the
chief Arabs escorted me to other tembes of Tabora. When we went
to visit Mussoud bin Abdullah, he showed me the very ground where
Burton and Speke’s house stood—now pulled down and replaced
by his office—Sny bin Amer’s house was also torn down, and the
fashionable tembe of Unyanyembe, now in vogue, built over
it,—finely-carved rafters—huge carved doors, brass knockers,
and lofty airy rooms—a house built for defence and comfort.
The finest house in Unyanyembe belongs to Amram bin Mussoud,
who paid sixty frasilah of ivory—over $3,000—for it. Very fair
houses can be purchased for from twenty to thirty frasilah of
ivory. Amram’s house is called the “Two Seas”—“Baherein.” It is
one hundred feet in length, and twenty feet high, with walls four
feet thick, neatly plastered over with mud mortar. The great door
is a marvel of carving-work for Unyanyembe artisans. Each rafter
within is also carved with fine designs. Before the front of the
house is a young plantation of pomegranate trees, which flourish
here as if they were indigenous to the soil. A shadoof, such as
may be seen on the Nile, serves to draw water to irrigate the
gardens.
Towards evening we walked back to our own finely situated tembe in
Kwihara, well satisfied with what we had seen at Tabora. My men
drove a couple of oxen, and carried three sacks of native rice—a
most superior kind—the day’s presents of hospitality from Khamis
bin Abdullah.
In Unyanyembe I found the Livingstone caravan, which started off in
a fright from Bagamoyo upon the rumour that the English Consul was
coming. As all the caravans were now halted at Unyanyembe because
of the now approaching war, I suggested to Sayd bin Salim, that it
were better that the men of the Livingstone caravan should live
with mine in my tembe, that I might watch over the white man’s
goods. Sayd bin Salim agreed with me, and the men and goods were
at once brought to my tembe.
One day Asmani, who was now chief of Livingstone’s caravan, the
other having died of small-pox, two or three days before, brought
out a tent to the veranda where, I was sitting writing, and shewed
me a packet of letters, which to my surprise was marked:
“To Dr. Livingstone,
” Ujiji,
“November 1st, 1870.
” Registered letters.”
From November 1st, 1870, to February 10, 1871, just one hundred
days, at Bagamoyo! A miserable small caravan of thirty-three men
halting one hundred days at Bagamoyo, only twenty-five miles by
water from Zanzibar! Poor Livingstone! Who knows but he maybe
suffering for want of these very supplies that were detained so
long near the sea. The caravan arrived in Unyanyembe some time
about the middle of May. About the latter part of May the first
disturbances took place. Had this caravan arrived here in the
middle of March, or even the middle of April, they might have
travelled on to Ujiji without trouble.
On the 7th of July, about 2 P.M., I was sitting on the burzani as
usual; I felt listless and languid, and a drowsiness came over me;
I did not fall asleep, but the power of my limbs seemed to fail
me. Yet the brain was busy; all my life seemed passing in review
before me; when these retrospective scenes became serious, I
looked serious; when they were sorrowful, I wept hysterically;
when they were joyous, I laughed loudly. Reminiscences of
yet a young life’s battles and hard struggles came surging into
the mind in quick succession: events of boyhood, of youth, and
manhood; perils, travels, scenes, joys, and sorrows; loves and
hates; friendships and indifferences. My mind followed the
various and rapid transition of my life’s passages; it drew the
lengthy, erratic, sinuous lines of travel my footsteps had passed
over. If I had drawn them on the sandy floor, what enigmatical
problems they had been to those around me, and what plain,
readable, intelligent histories they had been to me!
The loveliest feature of all to me was the form of a noble, and
true man, who called me son. Of my life in the great pine forests
of Arkansas, and in Missouri, I retained the most vivid impressions.
The dreaming days I passed under the sighing pines on the Ouachita’s
shores; the new clearing, the block-house, our faithful black
servant, the forest deer, and the exuberant life I led, were
all well remembered. And I remembered how one day, after we had
come to live near the Mississipi, I floated down, down, hundreds of
miles, with a wild fraternity of knurly giants, the boatmen of
the Mississipi, and how a dear old man welcomed me back, as if
from the grave. I remembered also my travels on foot through
sunny Spain, and France, with numberless adventures in Asia Minor,
among Kurdish nomads. I remembered the battlefields of America
and the stormy scenes of rampant war. I remembered gold mines,
and broad prairies, Indian councils, and much experience in the
new western lands. I remembered the shock it gave me to hear
after my return from a barbarous country of the calamity that
had overtaken the fond man whom I called father, and the hot
fitful life that followed it. Stop! ************
Dear me; is it the 21st of July? Yes, Shaw informed me that it
was the 21st of July after I recovered from my terrible attack
of fever; the true date was the 14th of July, but I was not
aware that I had jumped a week, until I met Dr. Livingstone.
We two together examined the Nautical Almanack, which I brought
with me. We found that the Doctor was three weeks out of his
reckoning, and to my great surprise I was also one week out,
or one week ahead of the actual date. The mistake was made by
my being informed that I had been two weeks sick, and as the day
I recovered my senses was Friday, and Shaw and the people were
morally sure that I was in bed two weeks, I dated it on my Diary
the 21st of July. However, on the tenth day after the first of my
illness, I was in excellent trim again, only, however, to see and
attend to Shaw, who was in turn taken sick. By the 22nd July
Shaw was recovered, then Selim was prostrated, and groaned in his
delirium for four days, but by the 28th we were all recovered, and
were beginning to brighten up at the prospect of a diversion in the
shape of a march upon Mirambo’s stronghold.
The morning of the 29th I had fifty men loaded with bales, beads,
and wire, for Ujiji. When they were mustered for the march
outside the tembe, the only man absent was Bombay. While men were
sent to search for him, others departed to get one more look, and
one more embrace with their black Delilahs. Bombay was found some
time about 2 P.M., his face faithfully depicting the contending
passions under which he was labouring—sorrow at parting from the
fleshpots of Unyanyembe—regret at parting from his Dulcinea of
Tabora—to be, bereft of all enjoyment now, nothing but
marches—hard, long marches—to go to the war—to be killed,
perhaps, Oh! Inspired by such feelings, no wonder Bombay was
inclined to be pugnacious when I ordered him to his place, and I
was in a shocking bad temper for having been kept waiting from
8 A.M. to 2 P.M. for him. There was simply a word and a savage
look, and my cane was flying around Bombay’s shoulders, as if he
were to be annihilated. I fancy that the eager fury of my
onslaught broke his stubbornness more than anything else; for
before I had struck him a dozen times he was crying for “pardon.”
At that word I ceased belaboring him, for this was the first time
he had ever uttered that word. Bombay was conquered at last.
“March!” and the
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