In Door Garedning by William Keane (tools of titans ebook .TXT) 📕

be one part turfy loam, one part peat or leaf
mould, and one part rotten horsedung. They delight on a cool bottom, and will thrive tolerably
well in a cold pit, protected from frost during the winter. They should be placed on a dry bottom
of coal ashes, and kept as near to the glass as possible.


HEATHS.—They may, if there is no room for them in the greenhouse, be kept in a cold pit, or
frame, during the winter. Water to be given carefully on the forenoon of a fine day. Frost to be
excluded by mats, or other covering; but they can be grown sufficiently hardy by free exposure
to bear a few degrees of frost without injury if they are shaded from the sun’s rays until gradually
thawed.

MIGNONETTE.—Sow, to come into bloom about the end of February. The soil to be rich, light,
and the pots to have a good supply of crocks at the bottom, as the success of growing this
favourite plant through the winter will depend in a great measure upon the drainage and keeping
the plants dry and untouched by frosts. Those who have a hotbed frame will find it useful to start
the seeds by moderate heat. Others who have no such convenience may place their pots in a cold
frame in a sheltered situation, and upon a floor of rough stones overlaid with ashes.

PELARGONIUMS.—The more dormant they can be kept during the winter the better. Therefore,
only a very moderate supply of water should be given to keep them from flagging, and a liberal
supply of air at all favourable opportunities.

VERBENAS.—To be placed on swing or other shelves as near to the glass as possible. They
require plenty of air, the extirpation of green fly, and a moderate supply of water to preserve
them in a healthy condition.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

FERNS.—Sow the seeds, or spores, when ripe. A convenient sized pot to be filled with sandy
peat, finishing with a few rough lumpy pieces to form an uneven surface. The seeds to be shaken
over the tops and sides of these pieces of soil, by which there is more probability of some of
them vegetating than if they had been sown on a level surface where the whole of the seed would
be subjected to the same kind of treatment, which might with ordinary care be either too wet or
too dry. The pot to be set in a saucer that contains a little water, which will feed the whole mass
with sufficient moisture without a drop being required on the surface of the pot. The seedlings
succeed best in a cool part of the stove where evaporation can be most effectually prevented; but
they do not like to be continually kept close under a bell-glass.

FORCING-HOUSES.

CUCUMBERS.—Top dress the plants in pots or boxes with leaf mould, supplying those that are
rooting freely with an abundance of atmospheric moisture, and free circulation of air, stopping at
every second joint, and setting the fruit as the blossom expands.

STRAWBERRIES.—It is usual, when the stock of plants in pots is large, to lay them on their sides
on the south side of a wall or fence, packed in dry coal ashes, and topped with boards, or any
other such covering, to protect them from heavy falls of rain until they are wanted for forcing.

FOURTH WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.


As fresh air is indispensable for the health of plants, and as fogs occur about this time, it is
essential to apply a little fire-heat during the day, to expel damps, and to cause a desirable
activity in the circulation of the air. Attend to cleanliness, picking off dead leaves, and the
destruction of insects.

BULBS.—Pot Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, &c., to flower late in the spring; also the Ixiæ and
Gladioli, and various other Irideæ; and also Oxalis, Lachenalia, &c. They delight in light open
soil composed of peat, loam, and sand, and rotten leaf mould as an addition to, or substitute for,
the peat.

CINERARIAS.—Give the final shift to the plants intended to flower as specimens in early spring.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS to be treated with manure water occasionally. All suckers and spindly shoots
to be removed, and the flowers to be thinned.

PELARGONIUMS.—A little fire-heat by day, with plenty of air, will be of service to drive off the
damp and stagnant atmosphere caused by heavy rains. Watering, if necessary, to be given in the
morning; the principal shoots to be tied into a regular form, and the weakly and useless ones
removed; to be placed near the glass, to encourage a sturdy, short-jointed growth. Two ounces of
the Gishurst compound, dissolved in one gallon of soft water, will speedily banish the green fly.

FORCING-HOUSES.

CUCUMBERS.—Keep them tied in as they grow; stop the side-shoots at the second joint; allow the
leader to grow to the required length before stopping it; and pinch off the young fruit if you think
they are not sufficiently strong to carry a crop.

PEACHES.—Prune and dress the trees as soon as they lose their leaves. If the lights are still off
any of the early houses the sooner they are put on the better. An abundance of air to be given.

PINES.—The temperature of the fruit-swelling plants to range from 60° to 65° at night, with an
increase during the day in accordance with the state of the weather, whether bright and sunny, or
rainy, foggy, or frosty; and the succession plants a few degrees less. Humidity to be considerably
reduced, as it tends at this season to produce weak and immature growth. The bark-beds of
strong succession plants that are required to start into fruit early, to be renewed by having a small
quantity added to the surface of the bed. Pits heated by dung will require covering with mats at
night: when covered let every other light be slightly raised, to allow the steam to pass off. When
the covering is off it will escape through the laps of the glass. Take advantage of all opportunities
for giving a little air. If it can be done every day, so much the better for the health of the plants.

VINES.—The Vines in late houses that will not require to be pruned for some time should have
the tops or other portions of the immature wood cut off, to give strength and plumpness to the
back eyes. If the houses are dry, kept free from drip, and the scissors employed amongst
decaying berries, the fruit that now remains will be in a good condition for holding on for a long
time.


NOVEMBER.

FIRST WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Now that the dull, foggy days and sharp frosty nights have arrived, it is necessary to keep all
plants that have finished their growth free from excitement, and rather dry at their roots. A gentle
fire to be applied during the day, which will allow the advantage of a free circulation of fresh air,
and, by closing up early in the afternoon, will retain sufficient heat to resist the encroachments of
ordinary frosts during the night. But if the frost should set in severely, night coverings, if
possible, should be applied in preference to fire-heat.

AMERICAN PLANTS, &c.—Pot, if not done, Rhododendrons, Kalmias, hardy Azaleas, Lily of the
Valley, and other plants usually required for winter forcing.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS.—They will require an abundance of air to prevent the flowers expanding
weakly. Keep them well supplied with water, and the leaves in a healthy state; for a great portion
of their beauty depends upon so doing. They may sometimes be seen almost entirely denuded of
leaves when in flower, which considerably detracts from what should be their ornamental
appearance in the greenhouse or conservatory.

PRIMROSES (Chinese).—Give a few of the strongest and most forward a shift into larger pots.
The double varieties are very useful for cutting where bouquets are much in request, as they do
not drop the flowers like the single varieties.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

Great caution will now be necessary in the application of atmospheric heat and humidity, as an
excess of either will cause a premature and unseasonable growth which no after-care could
thoroughly rectify. The thermometer for the majority of stove plants need not at any time of the
day exceed 60°, with a fall of 8° or 10° during the night.

BEGONIAS.—They deserve a place in every stove, as they are plants of easy cultivation, and
bloom at a season when flowers are scarce; they can also be introduced to the conservatory or
sitting-room when in bloom.

FORCING-HOUSES.

HOTBEDS.—Keep up the heat of dungbeds by adding leaves and dung to the linings; but not
sufficient of the latter to cause a rank steam in the frames.

PEACHES.—If any vacancies occur in the late houses they should now be filled up. We have
before recommended trees of large size to be taken from the walls for this purpose, but in so
doing care should be taken to select such sorts as the Murray, Elruge, and Violette Hâtive
Nectarines; Noblesse, Royal George, Grosse Mignonne, and Chancellor Peaches, being the best


adapted for forcing. Some sorts are of little value as forced fruit, although they may bear
abundantly.

PINES.—Coverings to be used, and as little fire-heat as possible, to keep up the required heat
during the night. The heat of the spring-fruiting and succession-houses to be gradually decreased,
so that it may range from 60° to 65°. The winter-fruiting plants to range 10° higher.

VINES.—The Grapes will require unremitting attention to keep the house dry, and to cut out the
decayed berries. It will, we suppose, be generally observed that the fruit that was ripe before wet
weather sets in will keep better than the more backward ones, which may be a useful hint “to
make hay while the sun shines,” or, in other words, to ripen the fruit in good time. Prune and
dress the Vines in the succession-houses as recommended for the early ones. When Vines have
been taken out of the house they should be protected from the vicissitudes of the weather, as they
are sometimes greatly injured by being exposed to excessive wet and severe frosts.

SECOND WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Continue to admit air in favourable weather, but not in currents; shut up early; use water
sparingly, and always tepid—giving little or none to succulents and plants in a state of rest.

FLOWERS.—Where there is a pit at liberty it may now be prepared for forcing flowers. The glass
must be thoroughly cleaned, as light is of importance at this season. The tree leaves when
gathered to be mixed with a portion of well-prepared dung, to produce an early action, and about
nine inches of tan or sawdust placed over them in which to plunge the pots. The plants, if in
proper condition, may be introduced immediately—viz. Azaleas, Camellias, Persian Lilacs,
Gardenias, Moss and