In Door Garedning by William Keane (tools of titans ebook .TXT) 📕

health of such things that the
foliage be kept clean, and, therefore, in a fit state to perform its functions, as that their roots be
kept in a healthy, active state.

FORCING-HOUSES.

ASPARAGUS.—Make a slight hotbed of tree leaves, if they can be procured, of size or substance
sufficient only to cause a gentle heat. The roots may be taken up from the open ground, and
planted at once in the bed. Mice and slugs to be looked after. Any vacant pits, or frames, may be
made available for the purpose of forcing Asparagus.

CHERRIES.—To be treated as advised for Peaches.

CUCUMBERS.—If the plants are strong, and you have a full command of bottom and atmospheric
heat, you may calculate, with a little attention, upon ultimate success. Air to be admitted when it
is safe to do so, to get the leaves dry, if possible, daily. Light is indispensable, and steep-roofed
houses, or pits, are preferred for that object in winter. The early nursing-box for young plants
should be well supplied with linings, the glass washed clean and kept in good repair.

MUSHROOMS.—Continue to prepare succession-beds as formerly directed. The beds that have
been in bearing some time, if the surface is dry, to be watered with clear, weak liquid manure, a
few degrees warmer than the temperature of the house.

PEACHES.—The early house should now be set in order, by being thoroughly cleansed,
whitewashed, and the trees pruned, dressed, and tied. Air to be given during the day, and the
house to be shut up at night for a fortnight or three weeks, preparatory to the commencement of
forcing.

PINES.—The principal objects of attention during this dull season should comprise a moderate
declension of heat and moisture, and a moderate supply of air at all times when it can be
admitted with safety. When heat is supplied by fermenting materials the linings will require
some sort of covering—as straw, fern, boards, or shutters—to protect them from cold winds,
frosts, or rains; only a gentle bottom heat is now required at this, that should be, their season of
rest, as a dry and moderately warm atmosphere is nearly all they will require. If the young plants


are growing in pits heated solely by dung linings, be careful to exclude the steam from the dung,
as excess of damp will rot the hearts of the plants.

VINES.—If early Grapes are required, it is advisable to adopt the old-fashioned plan of placing
some sweet hot dung inside the house, to produce an atmosphere that is most congenial for
softening the wood, and for “breaking” the buds. The roots, if outside, to be covered with a good
depth of litter, to produce an increase of heat by fermentation, and to prevent the escape of
terrestrial heat. All Vines casting their leaves to be pruned immediately.

DECEMBER.

FIRST WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Every endeavour should now be made to keep these houses as gay as possible. Fire-heat to be
applied occasionally during dull, dark, or rainy weather, taking care not to raise the temperature
too high—say greenhouse from 50° to 55° by day and from 40° to 45° by night; conservatory
60° by day and 50° by night. Chrysanthemums to be removed as soon as they get shabby, to be
succeeded by early Camellias. The Euphorbia jacquiniflora is well worthy of attention now; it
requires but a very moderate allowance of water at this season, as the least saturation or
interference with the root action will cause the leaves to turn yellow while the plant is in flower.
Poinsettia pulcherrima is also worthy of particular attention as a noble ornamental flower at this
season. The old Plumbago Capensis and rosea still retain their places amongst our best plants at
this season. Acacias and Cytisuses, being yellow and showy, give, with the other flowers, a
variety of colours to beautify the whole. Gesnera zebrina should not be forgotten; the elegant
markings of the leaves contribute to enhance the beauty of this beautiful winter flower.

HEATHS.—As fire-heat is generally injurious to this tribe of plants it is advisable to be very
cautious in its application. They can bear a good deal of cold and some degrees of frost without
sustaining any very serious injury; but they cannot bear the drying influence of fire-heat without
serious damage to their foliage, and which is very frequently death to the plants. They will
require but very little water, especially the large specimens, which should be very particularly
examined as to their state of dryness or otherwise, as a guide to the application or withholding of
water. An abundance of air to be given on fine days, to keep the plants from growing.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

A cautious application of fire-heat to be still observed here. The temperature to be kept rather
low than otherwise, for fear of exciting premature growth. A small portion of air to be admitted
on fine days, to purify the atmosphere of the house. Keep the surface of the soil in the pots free
from weeds, as also from moss and lichen; but when doing so do not loosen the soil so as to
injure the roots near the surface. Keep every plant free from dead leaves, and all climbing plants
neatly tied up. The Achimenes, Clerodendrons, Erythrinas, Gloxinias, and the various bulbs will
now be approaching a state of repose, and therefore will require but little or no water. To prevent
confusion or mistakes it is advisable to place them on a shelf, or some other part of the house, by


themselves. Although dormant, or nearly so, they require a stove temperature to keep them safe
and sound.

FORCING-HOUSES.

ASPARAGUS and SEA-KALE.—Make up beds as wanted.

MUSHROOMS.—Keep a moist atmosphere in the house, and the temperature steadily at or near
60°. A fresh bed to be made and spawned every three or four weeks, to produce successional
crops.

PINES.—The fruit now swelling will require the temperature and moisture of the house or pit to
be kept up. Those intended for the main crop to be kept in a regular state, allowing them air at
every favourable opportunity, with a day temperature from 70° to 75° and from 55° to 60° at
night. Plants in bloom to receive careful attention. Keep the atmosphere dry with a brisk
temperature, admitting a little fresh air at favourable opportunities, to prevent them from being
injured by damp. When the heat is kept up by dung linings, constant watching will be necessary
to prevent any fluctuation of temperature, having materials at hand to assist in case of frost.

VINES.—Where forcing has commenced attend to the breaking of the Vines by the application of
fermenting manure inside the house, as advised last week, which will be found the best means of
keeping the atmosphere regularly moist; but if such cannot be used, the wood should be syringed
frequently, and evaporating-pans, or troughs, kept full of water. The roots, if outside, to be
protected, and afforded a steady, gentle warmth until the buds are fairly swelled. As it is
advisable to proceed very slowly with early Vines, the temperature to range from 55° to 60° by
day and from 45° to 50° by night, and even rather under than over the above scale. Late Grapes
will require great care to preserve them from damp. Look over them frequently, and dry the
house by fire during the day.

SECOND WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Every dead, decaying, and mouldy leaf, and flowerstalk, to be removed as soon as they are seen.
Mildew to be banished by an application of flowers of sulphur, and afterwards to be prevented
from making its appearance by a free ventilation on clear, mild mornings, using a little fire heat
at the same time. Great caution is now necessary in giving water to the plants, more especially to
such as have not well matured their growth, and are in a rather soft state. It is also advisable to
look over them every morning, that the flagging of a leaf may be noticed, and the necessary
supply of water be given. All pots to be turned around occasionally to keep the plants uniform.

CALCEOLARIAS.—Remove all decayed leaves, and be careful to give no more water than is really
required. Keep down green fly.

CINERARIAS.—No more fire heat to be given than is necessary to keep out frost. The plants
intended for large specimens to receive their final shift; air to be given on all occasions in


favourable weather. Every one that is getting pot-bound to be shifted. Green fly to be kept down
by fumigating. The most forward to have the lightest place in the house, close to the glass, with
sufficient space for the air to circulate freely around the foliage of each.

PELARGONIUMS.—To be kept rather cool and dry; fire heat to be avoided, except when necessary
to prevent the temperature falling below 40°, or to dispel damp. Every plant intended for early
bloom to be arranged in the best form. The system of arranging a piece of twisted bass under the
rim of the pot, to which loops are fastened to secure the shoots and the better formation of the
plant, obviates the too-extensive use of sticks, a superfluity of which is at all times objectionable.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

Continue to act as advised lately. Care and caution in the application of water are more
especially required, as there is not a single feature in the cultivation of plants during the winter in
which the amateur is more likely to err, and by reason of which a greater amount of injury is
sustained, than in the application of water either in its fluid or vaporous state. If applied to the
soil in superabundance, the roots, being inactive, are certain to sustain some degree of injury; and
if it is applied in excess to the atmosphere in the form of vapour, the exhalations from the leaves
of the plants will be checked in consequence of the density of the medium that surrounds them
when they will be sure to suffer.

FORCING-HOUSES.

CUCUMBERS.—Sow some good variety for planting out next month. A one-light frame on a well-
worked bed of dung and leaves is most suitable for the purpose, as producing an atmosphere
moist and congenial for their healthy vegetation and growth.

PEACHES.—Syringe the trees that are just started and swelling the buds, and keep every plant
clean and neat.

PINES.—When the application of fire heat is necessary during severe weather, it is advisable to
pay particular attention to those that have done blooming and swelling off in various stages, that
they may not receive a check from being over-dry at the roots.

VINES.—Leaves, or dung, or both mixed together, when used to produce fermentation, and a
sweet vaporous atmosphere to “break” the early Vines, should be turned and watered at least
once a-week. Keep the wood generally moist, and proceed in forcing with caution as before
advised. As the most