In Door Garedning by William Keane (tools of titans ebook .TXT) 📕

Provence Roses, Rhododendrons, Sweet Briars, Honeysuckles, &c. The
Hyacinths, Narcissi, Tulips, and other bulbs that have been potted early, as advised in due
season, may be introduced successively in small quantities when the buds are an inch or two
long, plunging them in any out-of-the-way part of the pit, covering them for a time with four or
five inches of old tan.

HEATHS and NEW HOLLAND PLANTS.—Water them sparingly. Dry the atmosphere if necessary
by lighting a slight fire on fine days. Give air freely.

PELARGONIUMS.—Shift and tie out as they may require. A few of the most forward may be
accelerated by a little heat.

PRIMROSES (Chinese).—Water with caution. Two or three small pegs to be stuck into the soil
around each, to keep the stem and plant erect in the pot. Thin out weak and deformed bloom-
buds.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.


The resting section of Orchids should now be allowed to settle down gently to their annual
repose by withholding water at the root, by diminishing the amount of atmospheric moisture, and
by giving a more liberal ventilation than in the growing season. The more evergreen kinds—such
as some of the Aërides, Dendrobiums, Saccolabiums, Vandas, &c., to be favoured with the
warmest situation.

FORCING-HOUSES.

ASPARAGUS.—Where it is wanted early, preparations should now be made for forcing it. Any old
Cucumber or Melon-bed that still retains a gentle heat may be used for the purpose. The plants to
be placed as closely as possible, and covered with three or four inches of any light soil. The
application of linings will supply any deficiency of heat that may be caused by severe weather.
When the heads come up, to be supplied with an abundance of light and air.

CHERRIES.—Look over the plants in pots, and if they require shifting into larger pots it may be
done at once. The pots to be plunged in coal ashes, or any other loose material, to protect the
roots from frost, and where they will commence rooting immediately.

FIGS.—If the summer and autumn attention has been given to them, as advised, very little, if any,
winter pruning will now be required; but if such is necessary it may be done as soon as the leaves
fade. The trees to be carefully washed clean all over with soap and water, and then painted over
with a mixture composed of one ounce of soft soap and one ounce of sulphur to a quart of water.
Trees in pots to be shifted, or top-dressed, as may be necessary. Shifting is only recommended
when it is desirable to increase the size of the trees. To be afterwards placed in a shed with the
pots plunged in leaves.

PINES.—The plants on which the fruit has recently appeared to be encouraged with heat and
moderate moisture; but those that are likely to “show” for the next two months to be supplied
with a temperature to keep them progressing slowly that they may be just beginning to swell
their fruit when the days and sun are lengthening and strengthening. The state of temperature of
the beds recently renewed with tan to be examined frequently, as they sometimes become
suddenly too hot. Now, when Oak and other tree leaves can be collected, it is advisable to use
half leaves and half dung for lining the pits heated by fermenting materials; the leaves contribute
to make the heat more regular and lasting. Give no water to the succession plants during dull
weather except to such plants as are near the flues and pipes, and are apt to get over-dry in
consequence.

SEA-KALE.—If this delicious vegetable is wanted early, a small hotbed should be made in some
convenient place; the roots to be taken up and placed upon it, covered with a little light soil, and
protected by boards or any other contrivance most convenient and suitable to exclude light and
the inclemency of the weather.

RHUBARB.—The same as advised for Sea-kale. Where a Mushroom-house is at work is the best
place for both.


VINES.—All fading leaves to be removed from the Vines on which fruit is hanging, and the
house to be kept dry, light, and airy, and free from anything likely to create mould or damp.

THIRD WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Careful attention should now be given to the picking off mouldy and dead leaves, decaying
flower-stems, &c., as they spread contagion wherever they touch. Drip to be prevented, and
atmospheric humidity to be disposed of by a gentle day fire occasionally, and the free admission
of air.

AZALEAS (Chinese).—Introduce a few into heat for early bloom. The A. Indica alba and
Phoenicea are best to begin with; to be succeeded by Smith’s coccinea, and after it any of the
other varieties. As decorations for the conservatory or drawing-room they are invaluable where
they continue for six weeks or two months in perfect beauty.

CAMELLIAS.—Water, when necessary, to be given in a slightly tepid state, and plenty of air, that
the buds may be allowed to swell full and prominent by a slow but sure process. If bloom is
required early, to be forwarded by introducing them into a situation where heat is applied.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

Withhold moisture entirely from the roots of deciduous Orchids, and such as are sinking into a
state of repose. Any late specimens, or importations, making late growths to be favoured with the
best light situations in the house and a little water, to keep up the vitality sufficient to produce
the secretions necessary to carry them safely through the dull days of winter. Look over all
growing plants, and see that they do not suffer for want of water. Look to every Orchid, even the
smallest growing on blocks or in baskets, they all require attention. Repot or surface dress any
that require it. A favourable day to be chosen to wash the lights for the more free admission of
that agent most indispensable for their health. The whole to be kept neat, and free from insects;
and the plants on stages, tables, or suspended from blocks, baskets, &c., to be arranged in a
manner the most suitable for a picturesque and pleasing effect.

FORCING-HOUSES.

Where early forcing is intended it is advisable to give a thorough cleansing to the houses by
limewashing and dressing the wood of Cherries, Figs, Peaches, Vines, &c., as frequently
directed.

BEANS (Dwarf Kidney).—Sow in six-inch pots; when crocked to be filled within three inches of
the rim with a compost consisting of old Cucumber or Melon mould, rotten dung and leaf mould
in about equal proportions. To be placed in any convenient part of the forcing-house for a few
days until the soil is warm. The Beans are then sown about ten or twelve in each pot, and pressed
by the finger about an inch below the soil. In a week they will be up; to be then thinned out,
according to the strength of the plants, to six or eight in each, and to receive a gentle watering.


When the two first leaves are fully developed the plants to be earthed up as high as the
cotyledons. To be regularly syringed and watered at the roots, taking especial care that they do
not become too wet, or they will damp off. When they have made two joints to be stopped, to
cause them to produce laterals and bearing branches. The plants to be placed as close to the glass
as possible. The Chinese Dwarf and Fulmer are good sorts for forcing.

FIGS.—A temperature of about 40° will suit them at present; if allowed to get lower they are very
apt to suffer. Trees in pots to be removed to any house where that degree of temperature is kept
up.

PEACHES.—Where the roots are inside, and have been kept dry, an application of weak, clear
liquid manure, at the temperature of summer heat (76°), will act as a stimulant to the roots,
whose services are required before much excitement takes place at top.

PINES.—Now, at the dullest season of the year, it is necessary to be very cautious in regulating
the bottom and surface temperatures, more especially in the succession-houses or pits; a bottom
heat of about 70°, with a steady top temperature of about 60° during the day, and about 55°
during the night, will keep the plants in a comparatively comfortable state of rest, neither
allowing the temperature to decline so low as to reduce their vitality to such a degree as to
endanger their restoration to vigour in proper season, nor to rise so high as to excite them into a
growth that would be immature for want of solar light and heat. A moderate application of water
will also be necessary.

VINES.—When the Grapes are all cut, prune the Vines without loss of time, that the wounds may
have sufficient time to get perfectly healed before they are excited into growth. If delayed until
early spring, bleeding will be sure to follow. Vines in pots intended for forcing should either be
placed within the protection of the house appropriated to them, or secured from the effects of
severe weather.

FOURTH WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

The great object should now be to keep them moderately dry; water, when necessary, to be given
in the forenoon. Gentle fires to be applied in the daytime, with a sufficiency of air to allow the
vapour to pass off. All decaying leaves, flower-stalks, &c., to be carefully picked off. All weeds,
moss on the surface of pots, or anything else that would tend to cause dampness, mildew, or
decomposition, to be cleared away. Pinch off the tops of any of the half-hardy plants that are
growing too rapidly.

CLIMBERS.—To be closely tied, that they may interfere as little as possible with the admission of
light.

FORCING PIT.—The various plants described in former Calendars, and recommended to be
forwarded here for furnishing the drawing-room, conservatory, or mixed greenhouse, will require
careful and skilful attention. Moderate syringings with tepid water to be given on suitable


occasions. Fire heat to be applied, more especially in the daytime, with air at every favourable
opportunity. The pit to be shut up early, and the heat to be husbanded by external coverings in
preference to night heat. Syringings with the Gishurst Compound, or frequent and moderate
fumigations of tobacco smoke, to be given to destroy green fly. The water to be always tepid
when applied to the roots or branches when they require it.

NEW HOLLAND PLANTS.—As they are very apt to suffer when exposed to cold draughts of air,
and as they are generally wintered in the same house with the more hardy sorts of greenhouse
plants, they should occupy a part of the house where air can be admitted, when necessary, from
the top lights only.

ORANGE TREES.—Advantage to be taken of unfavourable weather for out-door work, to clean the
foliage of Orange trees and Camellias. It is as essential to the