In Door Garedning by William Keane (tools of titans ebook .TXT) 📕

essential point in early forcing is to secure a healthy and vigorous root
action, it is advisable, if the Vines are planted inside, to excite the roots by an occasional
application of water at a temperature from 85° to 90°. It the Vines are planted outside, a steady
heat of about 60° should be maintained by the fermenting matter placed on the border to be
frequently turned over, and protected with dry litter from the frost or other unfavourable weather.
Houses intended to commence forcing the early part of next month, to have some fermenting
materials placed on the borders to excite the roots a little before the Vines are started, which will
be of some assistance to make the buds push strongly and without much loss of time. To induce
the buds to break regularly throughout the whole length of the Vine, it is frequently necessary to


bend the rod so as to incline the most forward buds to the lowest level, and to elevate the most
backward.

THIRD WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

As many of the hard-wooded plants are impatient of fire heat and a confined atmosphere, it is
advisable to use no more artificial heat than is absolutely necessary. The drying effects of fire
heat must be counteracted by a supply of moisture; the moisture becomes condensed on the glass
and falls in drips, that are apt to spoil the beauty of the flowers, and to injure the foliage of the
plants. The best corrective for such unfavourable results is to be found in keeping the
temperature as low as may be consistent with the safety of the plants, and in withholding
moisture as much as possible whenever the glass is affected by frost. See that the young stock of
Heliotropes, Scarlet Geraniums, Persian Cyclamens, and other such flowers, that are grown
especially for winter, are accommodated with a light, airy situation, and receive regular attention
as regards watering. Avoid watering the Pelargoniums until they are thoroughly dry, and keep
down insects.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

The plants in the stove should be kept as quiet as possible, and only just sufficient water given to
keep them from flagging, to be accompanied with a moderately low temperature; about 60° by
day, and 50° by night, the object being to prevent them from growing before the spring of the
year. Admit air when it can be done safely, but do not expose the plants to cold, frosty winds at
any time. As our collections of Orchids are from countries with different seasons of growth, and
various kinds of temperature and climate, it is difficult to cultivate in one house a miscellaneous
collection of them so satisfactorily as where there are two divisions, the one commanding a
higher temperature, with more moisture, than the other. Where there is no such division,
advantage may be taken of a forcing-pit, or other such house, to which any of them now in a
growing state may be removed, and thus their growth may be promoted without injury to the
general collection. For the general collection a drier atmosphere and lower temperature are now
desirable, as no plants are more benefited by a season of rest than Orchids.

FORCING-HOUSES.

All VINES, PEACHES, and FIGS in POTS, or TUBS, to be secured from frost and wet. A fermenting
body in a forcing vinery is an excellent plunging medium for such of these as are wanted very
early. Keep up a succession of Asparagus, French Beans, Rhubarb, Sea-kale, &c., according to
the demand.

CUCUMBERS.—Thin out the fruit occasionally, more especially if too many appear at one time. If
any plants have been bearing some time, and now appear nearly exhausted, they may be rallied
into vigour again by a judicious pruning and thinning, and by the application of a top dressing of
leaf mould or other such rich, light soil, and of liquid manure occasionally.


PEACHES.—A moist heat, arising from dung or leaves, is as beneficial to Peach trees as to Vines
before they break, but as it can but rarely be made use of, in consequence of the difference in the
structure of the interior, moisture must be supplied by other means, such as syringing and
sprinkling the flues, or pipes, when warm. A few trees, in pots, are useful for early forcing, as
they can be easily plunged in a pit or any other convenient place where a mild regular bottom
heat can be supplied. The trees for this purpose must have been grown and established for some
time in pots.

PINES.—A regular heat, both bottom and atmospheric, to be kept up to carry the general stock of
fruiting plants safely through the winter. A high and close temperature to be avoided in the
management of the succession plants.

STRAWBERRIES.—If ripe fruit is wanted very early, some of the strongest plants, if treated as
advised, should now be selected, and placed in a pit where they can get a gentle bottom heat, or
on the back or front shelf of a vinery or Peach-house, just started for forcing, to be placed near
the glass with a free admission of air on fine days.

VINES.—It is advisable, when beginning to force, to commence with a low temperature—say,
55° by day and 50° by night, to be increased 5° more until they break, when it may be raised to
60° at night, and 65° in the day, or thereabouts, allowing a rise of a few degrees by sun heat. The
Vines to be syringed evening and morning until they break, and the walls and floor kept damp. If
the stems of the Vines are near the flues, or pipes, wrap moss over that part, and keep it
constantly moist. The Vines in the late houses to be pruned, the loose bark to be removed, and
the scale, if visible, to be banished by an application of the Gishurst Compound, or by the more
ancient composition of sulphur, soft soap, and tobacco water. Where the fruit is ripe, a little fire
heat will be necessary in frosty weather to prevent the vapour that adheres to the glass on the
inside being frozen, for the moisture on thawing is apt to drop upon the bunches causing injury to
the bloom, and decay to the berries.

FOURTH WEEK.

GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.

Continue to keep the supply of heat and moisture at the lowest degree compatible with the safety
of the plants from frosts. In damp, foggy weather, a gentle fire to be applied occasionally during
the day to expel moist, stagnant air. During severe winterly weather it is advisable to be cautious
in the application of heat, more especially at night. From 45° by night to 50° by day will be
sufficient for the conservatory, and 40° for the mixed greenhouse. To give a pleasing variety to
the appearance of these houses it is advisable to rearrange the plants occasionally; those going
out of flower to be removed, and a fresh supply introduced from the forcing-pit. All plants in
these and other departments to be regularly looked over, removing the dead leaves and tying in
straggling branches. The surface soil to be stirred a little, and some fresh added. As all compost-
heaps are benefited by exposure to frosts, it is advisable to turn over the caked or frozen surface
every morning, until the whole is turned over and penetrated by the frost, by which grubs and all
such kinds of vermin are destroyed, and the soil considerably ameliorated.


CALCEOLARIAS (Herbaceous).—To be shifted into larger pots if they require them, to be kept
near the glass, to be watered moderately through a fine rose, and on no account to be allowed to
get thoroughly dry. To be careful when removing decayed leaves, not to pull or to cut them off
too close to the stem, by which the flower-shoots would be very likely to get injured.

CAMELLIAS.—Great care is necessary that they may not be exposed to great alternations of
temperature, which are sure to cause them to drop their flower-buds. The great reason why
flower-buds very often fall off without properly coming into bloom, is the too sudden changes in
the temperature to which they are exposed. For instance: when the buds are nearly ready to
expand, a sudden heat causes them to push too rapidly; and, on the contrary, a decrease of
warmth at the time checks their growth, and in other cases causes them to fall. The heat required
to expand the blossom-buds is about 60° by day, and 50° by night. If this be attended to, the
plants will continue in flower for a great length of time, as the plants in that heat are not excited
to grow. A little weak manure water to be given occasionally to the blooming plants.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS.—When they begin to fade, to be removed to the north side of a wall or
fence, the pots to be plunged in old tan, leaves, or sawdust, to protect them from the severity of
winter.

CYTISUSES.—Place them and other such early-flowering plants in the coldest part of the house,
where they may receive plenty of air at all favourable opportunities.

ORANGE TREES.—These, or other such plants that have not been recently potted, to be surfaced
by removing a little of the top soil and supplying its place with fresh. Attention to be paid to
keeping the leaves clean and healthy.

STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.

As it would be improper to attempt to maintain the same degree of heat in any structure, when
the external temperature is below the freezing-point as may be permitted if it were 10° or 15°
above freezing, we would advise from 50° by night to 60° by day, for the stove and Orchid-
house. As many plants, especially Orchids, suffer from drip at this season, a careful look-out
should be kept, and either the cause remedied or the plants removed. The decoration of the
hothouse would now depend in a great measure upon Begonias, Euphorbias, Luculias, &c. Such
plants should be carefully tied up and placed in the most conspicuous situations, or some of them
may be removed to the conservatory so as to prolong their season of blooming.

ALLAMANDAS.—Continue the temperature and treatment as lately advised. To be potted, as also
Stephanotis, &c., and trained preparatory to starting them into growth, about the beginning of the
new year.

FORCING-PIT.—Introduce such plants as are generally used for forcing, especially the sweet-
scented sorts, Lily of the Valley, Sweet Briar, Lilacs, some of the Tea, Bourbon, or Hybrid
Perpetual Roses, and bulbous plants.


IXORAS.—To be elevated near the glass to set their bloom, and to have plenty of air at favourable
opportunities.

FORCING-HOUSES.

CUCUMBERS.—No diminution of heat to be allowed after the plants are ridged out and in action.

PEACHES.—It is becoming very much the fashion to have Peach and some other sorts of fruit
trees which are wanted for early forcing in pots, and the plan is so far good, that it affords the
advantage of being able to give the roots