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me on the bridge.

โ€œWho?โ€ said the man in a surly tone, stopping short.

โ€œCromwell,โ€ said I; โ€œdid you never hear of Oliver Cromwell?โ€

โ€œOh, Oliver,โ€ said the drayman, and a fine burst of intelligence lighted up his broad English countenance. โ€œTo be sure I have; yes, and read of him too. A fine fellow was Oliver, master, and the poor manโ€™s friend. Whether thatโ€™s his figure, though, I canโ€™t say. I hopes it be.โ€ Then touching his hat to me, he followed his gigantic team, turning his head to look at the statue as he walked along.

That man had he lived in Oliverโ€™s time would have made a capital ironside, especially if mounted on one of those dray horses of his. I remained looking at the statue some time longer. Turning round, I perceived that I was close by a booksellerโ€™s shop,135 into which, after deliberating a moment, I entered. An elderly, good-tempered looking man was standing behind the counter.

โ€œHave you the Dairymanโ€™s Daughter?โ€ I demanded.

โ€œJust one copy, young gentleman,โ€ said the bookseller, rubbing his hands; โ€œyou are just in time, if you want one; all the rest are sold.โ€

โ€œWhat kind of character does it bear?โ€

โ€œExcellent character, young gentleman; great demand for it; held in much esteem, especially by the Evangelical party.โ€

โ€œWho are the Evangelical party?โ€

โ€œExcellent people, young gentleman, and excellent customers of mine,โ€ rubbing his hands; โ€œbut setting that aside,โ€ he continued gravely, โ€œreligious, good men.โ€

โ€œNot a set of canting scoundrels?โ€

The bookseller had placed a small book upon the counter; but he now suddenly snatched it up and returned it to the shelf; then looking at me full in the face, he said, quietly: โ€œYoung gentleman, I do not wish to be uncivil, but you had better leave the shop.โ€

โ€œI beg your pardon if I have offended you, but I was merely repeating what I had heard.โ€

โ€œWhoever told you so must be either a bad, or a very ignorant, man.โ€

โ€œI wish for the book.โ€

โ€œYou shall not have it at any price.โ€

โ€œWhy not?โ€

โ€œI have my reasons,โ€ said the bookseller.

โ€œWill you have the kindness,โ€ said I, โ€œto tell me whose statue it is which stands there on horseback?โ€

โ€œCharles the First.โ€

โ€œAnd where is Cromwellโ€™s?โ€

โ€œYou may walk far enough about London, or, indeed, about England, before you will find a statue of Cromwell, young gentleman.โ€

โ€œWell, I could not help thinking that was his.โ€

โ€œHow came you to think so?โ€

โ€œI thought it would be just the place for a statue to the most illustrious Englishman. It is where I would place one were I prime minister.โ€

โ€œWell, I do think that Charles would look better a little farther down, opposite to Whitehall, for example,โ€ said the bookseller, rubbing his hands. โ€œDo you really wish to have the book?โ€

โ€œVery much.โ€

โ€œWell, here it is; no price, young gentleman; no priceโ โ€”canโ€™t break my wordโ โ€”give the money, if you like, to the beggars in the street. Cromwell is the first Englishman who endeavoured to put all sects on an equality. Wouldnโ€™t do, thoughโ โ€”world too fond of humbugโ โ€”still is. However, good day, young gentleman, and when you are prime minister, do not forget the two statues.โ€]

I should say that I scarcely walked less than thirty miles about the big city on the day of my first arrival. Night came on, but still I was walking about, my eyes wide open, and admiring everything that presented itself to them. Everything was new to me, for everything is different in London from what it is elsewhereโ โ€”the people, their language, the horses, the tout ensembleโ โ€”even the stones of London are different from othersโ โ€”at least it appeared to me that I had never walked with the same ease and facility on the flagstones of a country town as on those of London; so I continued roving about till night came on, and then the splendour of some of the shops particularly struck me. โ€œA regular Arabian nightsโ€™ entertainment!โ€ said I, as I looked into one on Cornhill, gorgeous with precious merchandise, and lighted up with lustres, the rays of which were reflected from a hundred mirrors.

But, notwithstanding the excellence of the London pavement, I began about nine oโ€™clock to feel myself thoroughly tired; painfully and slowly did I drag my feet along. I also felt very much in want of some refreshment, and I remembered that since breakfast I had taken nothing. I was now in the Strand, and, glancing about, I perceived that I was close by an hotel, which bore over the door the somewhat remarkable name of Holy Lands. Without a momentโ€™s hesitation I entered a well-lighted passage, and, turning to the left, I found myself in a well-lighted coffee-room, with a well-dressed and frizzled waiter before me. โ€œBring me some claret,โ€ said I, for I was rather faint than hungry, and I felt ashamed to give a humbler order to so well-dressed an individual. The waiter looked at me for a moment; then, making a low bow, he bustled off, and I sat myself down in the box nearest to the window. Presently the waiter returned, bearing beneath his left arm a long bottle, and between the fingers of his right hand two large purple glasses; placing the latter on the table, he produced a corkscrew, drew the cork in a twinkling, set the bottle down before me with a bang, and then, standing still, appeared to watch my movements. You think I donโ€™t know how to drink a glass of claret, thought I to myself. Iโ€™ll soon show you how we drink claret where I come from; and, filling one of the glasses to the brim, I flickered it for a moment between my eyes and the lustre, and then held it to my nose; having given that organ full time to test the bouquet of the wine, I applied the glass to my lips, taking a large mouthful of the wine, which I swallowed slowly and by degrees, that the palate might likewise have an opportunity of performing its functions. A second mouthful I disposed

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